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Ford's Roto-Selector:When You Changed the Radio With Your Foot Today we have steering-wheel audio controls, touchscreens and voice commands. In 1941, Ford had another solution: Use your foot. It sounds like an old-car tall tale until you see the period literature - and the installation instructions. The Roto-Selector Radio Foot Control Switch was designed to let the driver operate the tuning system of a compatible Ford radio without reaching for the dashboard. C&G Ford Parts offers reproduction 11A-18934-A radio foot control switch with wire for applicable 1941-1948 Ford and Mercury passenger-car installations. And this little switch is considerably more interesting than it looks.   Ford Really Called It the "Roto-Selector" That name isn't something modern parts sellers dreamed up. Ford's own 1941 promotional material advertised a new Ford radio with "Roto-Selector Control for fast automatic tuning." Period Lincoln literature also advertised an optional Roto-Selector Radio with foot control and long-distance antenna. The original installation instructions supplied by C&G are headed "Roto-Selector Radio Foot Control Switch." Those instructions show the switch mounted on the floor between the clutch and brake pedals. Its electrical lead was routed up to the radio receiver and plugged into a socket provided on the receiver itself. In other words, this wasn't an improvised accessory connected to an ordinary dashboard radio. The foot switch was designed to operate as part of the Roto-Selector radio system.   So What Did the Foot Switch Actually Do? Here's where terminology matters. The switch wasn't a modern SEEK control that searched the AM dial looking for the next strong signal. Instead, the Roto-Selector radio used preset stations. Contemporary Zenith service information describes Roto-Selector tuning as allowing any five desired stations to be selected automatically using either the foot control or the Roto-Selector control on the instrument panel. So when the driver operated the floor control, he wasn't telling the radio, "Go find me another station." He was telling it, "Move to another station I've already selected." That's an important difference - and a pretty sophisticated feature for a car radio more than 80 years ago.   There Was More Going On Than a Simple Switch The original C&G reference material also shows that the installation involved more than the button beneath the driver's shoe. The accompanying diagram identifies a relay/circuit breaker assembly, wiring to the receiver, a radio suppressor identified as 11A-18827 / 09A-18827, and the associated mounting hardware. That documentation is particularly useful because it shows us exactly where the reproduction 11A-18934-A fits into the larger system. The foot switch was the driver's control. The antenna, radio receiver and its Roto-Selector equipment performed the tuning operation. That's why saying the switch simply "changed the station" doesn't quite tell the whole story.   Why Control a Radio With Your Foot? Think about manually tuning an automobile radio of the period. You're driving down a two-lane road while turning a tuning knob and watching a dial, trying to land precisely on the station you want. Preset tuning eliminated much of that fiddling. Moving control of those presets down to the driver's foot meant the radio could be operated without reaching across the instrument panel. It was an early solution to a problem automakers still work on today: How do you let the driver operate accessories while keeping attention on the road? Different technology. Same problem.   Radio Was a Big Deal in the 1940s It's easy to underestimate how important the radio itself was. There was no streaming audio, satellite radio or smartphone in your pocket. Radio brought drivers news, sports, music, weather and entertainment while they traveled. American broadcasting was expanding rapidly. By June 30, 1948, the Federal Communications Commission reported 2,034 standard AM broadcast stations operating in the United States. That's a far cry from the handful of choices we sometimes imagine when thinking about an old tube radio.   What Was Reception Like? Those Ford radios operated in a very different broadcasting environment from today's digital entertainment systems. AM reception depended on the station's frequency and transmitter power as well as distance, terrain, ground conductivity, interference and atmospheric conditions. Nighttime could change everything. Medium-wave AM signals can propagate beyond their normal daytime range after sunset because radio energy can return to earth through the ionosphere. That made reception of distant stations possible - sometimes from hundreds of miles away. It could also produce fading and interference. So the selection of stations available to a driver wasn't necessarily identical at noon and midnight. Imagine heading down a highway after dark in your Ford. One of your regular stations starts fading as the miles roll by. Instead of leaning toward the dashboard and hunting around the dial, you've already got several stations adjusted into the Roto-Selector. Move your foot. Operate the switch. Bring up another preset. Now the Roto-Selector starts making a lot more sense.   Five Presets Wasn't Primitive in 1941 Five stations may sound rather limited today. In 1941, it was convenience. A Ford advertisement from the period specifically promoted the Roto-Selector as "fast automatic tuning." Contemporary Zenith service information confirms selection of five desired stations through the Roto-Selector system. Instead of repeatedly finding a favorite station manually, the driver could have the desired stations preset. That's essentially the same basic convenience provided by radio memory buttons for decades afterward - accomplished with vacuum tubes, switches and electromechanical hardware instead of microprocessors.   Did Every 1941-1948 Ford Have One? No. This is an important restoration distinction. Ford's own 1941 material describes the radio as an accessory, rather than standard equipment on every car. An aftermarket replacement-part application covering several years does not prove that every Ford or Mercury radio built during those years originally used exactly the same switch or radio configuration. C&G therefore lists 11A-18934-A for applicable 1941-1948 Ford and Mercury passenger-car applications. If you're doing a factory-correct restoration, the vehicle year and the radio equipment installed in the car should be considered.   The Kind of Detail That Makes a Restoration Fun The Roto-Selector is exactly the sort of feature that makes an early Ford interesting. Everybody notices the steering wheel. Everybody notices the gauges. But somebody eventually looks down at the floor and spots another switch. "What's that?" You point toward the radio. "Radio control." Now you've got a conversation. And with the original installation instructions available, we don't have to rely on somebody's recollection of how it supposedly worked. We can see where Ford intended the control to be installed, how its lead connected to the receiver, and how the system was laid out. That's the difference between merely installing an old-car part and understanding the piece of history you're putting back into the car.   11A-18934-A Radio Foot Control Switch With Wire C&G Ford Parts offers the reproduction 11A-18934-A Radio Foot Control Switch with Wire for applicable 1941-1948 Ford and Mercury passenger-car radio installations. If you're restoring an original-style radio system and aren't certain whether your receiver uses the Roto-Selector foot control, contact us before ordering. C&G Ford Parts has been helping enthusiasts keep classic Fords on the road since 1978, and our crew doesn't just sell old-car parts - we own and drive old cars ourselves. Because sometimes the smallest part under the dashboard has one of the best stories in the whole car. And yes - in 1941, Ford really did let you operate the radio with your foot.   Sources & Further Reading • C&G Ford Parts - 11A-18934-A Radio Foot Control Switch • 1941 Ford promotional literature - Roto-Selector automatic tuning • 1941 Lincoln-Zephyr brochure - Roto-Selector Radio with foot control • Zenith service data - Roto-Selector tuning and five-station selection • Ford News index - period reference to Mercury Roto-Selector foot control Primary material supplied by C&G Ford Parts: "Roto-Selector Radio Foot Control Switch" installation instructions, including mounting and wiring diagrams.  

1941-48 Ford & Mercury Convertible Top & Sun Visor Brackets When you're restoring a 1941-48 Ford or Mercury convertible, some parts disappear beneath upholstery, carpet or sheet metal when the job is finished. The hardware across the windshield header isn't one of them. Every time you sit behind the wheel, lower a sun visor or secure the convertible top, this hardware is right there in front of you. Worn, pitted or mismatched header hardware can stand out on an otherwise beautifully restored interior. That's why this week's C&G Ford Parts special is worth a closer look: our 1941-48 Ford & Mercury Sun Visor & Header Bracket Kit, part number 11A-7604144-K. Regularly $681.99, it's on sale through September 23, 2026 for just $379.95. More Than Just Sun Visor Brackets Don't let the words sun visor fool you. This isn't simply a pair of brackets for hanging the visors. The 11A-7604144-K kit includes the center top latch bracket plus right- and left-hand corner latch brackets with the sun visor frames installed. All three assemblies mount along the windshield header. Your own upholstered sun visor panels are then fitted to the supplied frames. That makes these pieces part of two very visible systems on the car: the hardware associated with securing the convertible top at the windshield header and the sun visor assemblies inside the passenger compartment. And on a convertible, that's prime real estate. Why Windshield Header Hardware Matters A convertible presents a restoration challenge that a closed car doesn't. There's no permanent steel roof extending over the passenger compartment. The folding top has to meet the windshield header, and hardware in this area helps secure the top when it's raised. At the same time, the interior side of the header carries the sun visor assemblies. So these aren't pieces that simply disappear once installation is complete. They're visible. If you've spent countless hours getting the dashboard, garnish moldings, upholstery and convertible top looking right, badly pitted or mismatched hardware above the windshield can become the proverbial sore thumb. A coordinated replacement set gives that entire area a clean, consistent appearance. One Kit Instead of Chasing Individual Pieces Anyone who's restored a Ford or Mercury that's approaching 80 years old knows how this story goes. Finding the big parts can sometimes be easier than finding all the little pieces that were originally attached to them. Convertible-specific hardware may have been removed decades ago. Pieces get lost. Visor frames get bent. Brackets become pitted or damaged. Previous owners substitute whatever they could find. And occasionally there's a coffee can somewhere containing two screws, one mystery spring and absolutely none of the parts you actually need. That's old-car restoration. Convertible Top Hold-Down Latches — 11A-7603522-K See 11A-7603522-K Convertible Top Hold-Down Latches This set of three stainless convertible top hold-down latches includes the center mounting bracket and is designed for 1941–48 Ford and Mercury convertible applications, with additional Sportsman applications listed by C&G. These are the working pieces that help hold the convertible top securely at the windshield header. The 11A-7604144-K kit eliminates much of that hunt by supplying the center bracket and both corner brackets together, with the RH and LH sun visor frames already installed. The kit also includes the stainless mounting hardware and installation screws needed for the assembly. Stainless Steel Where You Can See It This kit is manufactured from stainless steel, an especially useful material for components mounted around the windshield header of a convertible. Besides providing a clean finished appearance, stainless steel offers excellent resistance to corrosion - valuable on hardware associated with a folding top and an area of the car that may encounter moisture over its lifetime. More importantly for the restorer, you're replacing the major visible pieces across the header as a coordinated set rather than trying to make several old components of different condition look like they belong together. What Does 11A-7604144-K Fit? The kit is intended for 1941-48 Ford and Mercury convertible applications. Because many of these cars have passed through numerous owners and restorations over the last eight decades, it's always smart to compare your existing hardware and confirm the application before installation. If you're uncertain whether 11A-7604144-K is correct for your Ford or Mercury, give C&G a call. We've been helping people keep old Fords on the road since 1978, and technical help from somebody who actually knows these cars is still part of the deal.   While You're Working Around the Windshield Header… If you're already restoring the sun visor and convertible-top hardware around the windshield, it's a good time to inspect the other pieces that make up this area. Seals harden, latches wear and small pieces disappear over the decades. Taking care of them while you're already working around the header can save another round of disassembly later. Convertible Windshield Header Seal — 11A-7651312 See 11A-7651312 Windshield Header Seal Don't confuse this one with 11A-7651330. 11A-7651312 installs on top of the windshield, providing the corresponding seal at the windshield-header area. C&G lists applications for 1941–48 Ford Convertibles, 1946–48 Ford Sportsman models and 1941–48 Mercury Convertibles. Convertible Header Bow Seal — 11A-7651330 See 11A-7651330 Header Bow Seal Here's one of those little pieces that can make a big difference when you're putting a convertible top back together. 11A-7651330 mounts to the top bow and C&G lists applications for 1941–48 Ford Convertibles, 1946–48 Ford Sportsman models and 1941–48 Mercury Convertibles. Windshield Header Antenna Hole Plug — 11A-7603454-R See 11A-7603454-R Windshield Header Antenna Hole Plug And then there's the kind of part that can drive a restorer nuts: the little piece that's missing. The 11A-7603454-R is the antenna-hole plug for the windshield header and C&G lists applications for 1941–48 Ford Convertibles, 1946–48 Ford Sportsman models and 1941–48 Mercury Convertibles. And now for the part your restoration budget will appreciate. This Week Only: Save $302.04 Regular Price: $681.99 C&G Weekly Special: $379.95 YOU SAVE: $302.04 That's more than three hundred bucks left in the restoration fund for the next item on the list. And if you own an old Ford, we both know there's always another item on the list. The special price runs through September 23, 2026, while supplies last. Part Number 11A-7604144-K Description Sun Visor & Header Bracket Kit - Stainless Application 1941-48 Ford & Mercury Convertibles Regular Price $681.99 Sale Price $379.95 Savings $302.04 Restore one of the most visible areas of your convertible and save more than $300 while you're doing it. SHOP THE $379.95 SPECIAL

Two Water Pumps, Two Sides: Getting the Right Pump for Your 1937–48 Ford Flathead V8   If you’re new to early Ford Flathead V8s, one look under the hood reveals something a little different from most later engines: there are two water pumps—one on each side of the engine. And no, they aren’t interchangeable. For 1937–48 Ford and Mercury passenger cars and 1937–47 Ford pickups equipped with the V8, C&G Ford Parts offers the two pumps you need: 78-8501-B — Right-Hand Water Pump (Passenger Side)78-8502-B — Left-Hand Water Pump (Driver Side) Knowing which is which matters, especially when you’re replacing only one side.   Why Does a Flathead Ford Have Two Water Pumps? The Flathead V8 cooling system reflects the engine’s distinctive architecture. Instead of using one centrally located water pump, Ford used a pump on each bank of the V8 to circulate coolant through the engine and radiator, keeping in mind each side of the engine has a separate cooling jacket. That makes both pumps important to the cooling system. A worn, leaking or noisy pump on either side deserves attention. On a restoration that has been sitting for years—or an engine with an unknown maintenance history—it’s also worth inspecting both pumps rather than assuming the other side is fine simply because only one is leaking.   Right Hand or Left Hand? Here's the Easy Way to Remember It Early Ford parts terminology identifies left and right from the driver's position looking forward, not from somebody standing in front of the car looking into the engine compartment. So: 78-8501-B — RIGHT HAND = Passenger Side 78-8502-B — LEFT HAND = Driver Side Standing in front of the radiator looking toward the engine can make this seem backwards. When in doubt, think of yourself sitting behind the steering wheel. Driver's side is left. Passenger side is right.   78-8501-B Right-Hand Water Pump C&G part number 78-8501-B is the right-hand, or passenger-side, V8 water pump. It fits 1937–48 Ford and Mercury passenger-car applications and 1937–47 Ford pickup applications as listed in our fitment data. This is a bearing-type pump and includes the mounting gasket. If you're looking under the hood from the driver's seat, this is the pump on your right.   78-8502-B Left-Hand Water Pump C&G part number 78-8502-B is its counterpart for the left-hand, or driver's side, of the engine. It covers the corresponding 1937–48 Ford and Mercury passenger-car and 1937–47 Ford pickup V8 applications. Like the right-hand pump, it is designed as the correct side-specific replacement for these early Ford cooling systems. Remember: 8501 = right/passenger side. 8502 = left/driver side. That little bit of Ford part-number knowledge can come in mighty handy the next time you're staring at an old Flathead.   Don't Ignore the Other Side If one water pump has reached the end of its service life, take a close look at the other one while you're there. Check for coolant leakage, shaft play, bearing noise and signs that the pump has been on the engine for a very long time. Replacing a questionable pump while the cooling system is already drained can be considerably easier than doing the job all over again a few months down the road. That doesn't mean both pumps automatically need replacement every time one fails. It means an old Ford deserves an inspection rather than a guess. The 78-8501-PR Left and Right-hand water pumps are a better deal economically at $189.90 for both sides as a set. While you are inspecting under the hood and the hoses are removed, make sure you check your thermostats for the old flathead.   The Right Parts for Your Early Ford These pumps cover a long and popular stretch of Flathead Ford history—from prewar cars and pickups through the immediate postwar years. Getting the correct pump means checking the year, application and which side of the engine you're working on before placing the order. At C&G Ford Parts, we've been helping people keep old Fords on the road since 1978. If you're unsure which pump fits your Ford, Mercury or pickup, give us a call. You'll talk to people who know these cars and actually drive classics themselves. Need the passenger-side pump? Choose 78-8501-B Right-Hand Water Pump. Need the driver's-side pump? Choose 78-8502-B Left-Hand Water Pump. Need both pumps? Choose the 78-8501-PR Right-Hand and Left-Hand Water Pumps as a set. And if, your Flathead needs both, well… Henry gave you two pumps for a reason. Keep it cool. Keep it Ford. And keep it on the road.

6-Volt Electric Fuel Pump for 1932-1955 Ford Cars, Mercury & Pickups If your classic Ford cranks longer than it used to, hesitates under acceleration, or struggles to start after sitting for a few weeks, the problem may not be the carburetor—it may be the fuel pump. A dependable fuel supply is essential to smooth starting, consistent performance, and enjoyable driving. Our 6-Volt Electric Fuel Pump (2.5-4.5 PSI) is designed for 1932-1955 Ford Passenger Cars, 1939-1955 Mercury models, and 1932-1955 Ford Pickups, providing reliable fuel delivery for vintage carbureted engines. Why Fuel Delivery Matters Every carbureted engine depends on a steady supply of fuel. The fuel pump transfers gasoline from the fuel tank through the fuel lines and filter before delivering it to the carburetor at the proper pressure. This pump provides 2.5 to 4.5 PSI, making it an excellent choice for many original-style carburetor applications that require low, consistent fuel pressure. When the pump, fuel lines, filter, and carburetor work together properly, your engine starts easier, idles smoother, and performs more consistently whether you're cruising to a local show or taking a weekend drive. Common Signs of a Weak Fuel Pump Original mechanical fuel pumps have served faithfully for decades, but age eventually catches up with every component. Internal diaphragms harden, valves wear, and modern ethanol-blended fuels can accelerate deterioration of older fuel system parts. Some of the most common warning signs include: Hard starting after the vehicle has been parked Extended cranking before the engine fires Hesitation during acceleration Intermittent stalling when hot Inconsistent engine performance Keep in mind that fuel delivery problems are often caused by more than one component. Contaminated fuel tanks, clogged filters, deteriorated rubber hoses, restricted fuel lines, or poor electrical connections can all contribute to similar symptoms. Inspecting the complete fuel system is always recommended when diagnosing fuel-related issues. Built for Classic Ford Applications Part Number: 11A-9350-E6 This electric fuel pump is engineered for 6-volt electrical systems and delivers the correct pressure range for many factory-style carbureted engines. It can serve as a dependable primary fuel pump or be used to help prime the fuel system after extended storage, reducing unnecessary cranking and helping your classic start more quickly. Applications include: 1932-1955 Ford Passenger Cars 1939-1955 Mercury 1932-1955 Ford Pickups Why Buy from C&G Ford Parts? Since 1978, C&G Ford Parts has specialized exclusively in classic Ford restoration parts. As a second-generation family-owned business, we're more than a parts supplier—we're enthusiasts. Every member of our team owns and drives a classic Ford or truck, so we understand the importance of quality, proper fitment, and dependable technical support. Whether you're performing a complete restoration or simply solving an annoying fuel delivery problem, we're here to help you choose the right parts the first time. Before placing your order, verify your vehicle's application and inspect the condition of your fuel tank, fuel lines, filters, and electrical connections. Replacing worn fuel system components together helps ensure dependable performance and many miles of enjoyable driving in your vintage Ford.

Turn Signal Switch Removal & Replacement Guide Classic Ford Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Comet & F-Series Trucks (1960s–1970s) If your turn signals are acting up—or just plain dead—it’s often the switch inside the column calling it quits. The good news? This is a very doable repair with basic tools and a little patience. Below is a step-by-step guide to replacing classic Ford turn signal switches, including popular part numbers like C3OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-HQ, C9TZ-13341-C, and C9TZ-13341-USA. Why Replace Your Turn Signal Switch? A worn or failing turn signal switch can cause: Intermittent or non-functioning signals Brake light issues Horn malfunctions (shared circuit in many models) Replacing it restores proper electrical function and keeps your classic Ford safe—and road legal. Tools & Prep Steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) Small crescent wrench Screwdrivers Dielectric grease Phone (for reference photos—trust me on this one) First rule: Disconnect the battery ground cable. Always. Step-by-Step Removal 1. Remove the Turn Signal Lever Twist the lever out. If it’s stubborn, use a small crescent wrench on the flat spot found on most originals. 2. Remove Horn Button or Ring Push down and turn left to release.⚠️ Go slow—there’s a spring underneath that likes to make a break for freedom. Inspect horn ring retainer Remove horn brush if equipped 3. Pull the Steering Wheel Use your steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) and set the wheel aside. 4. Document Wiring (Critical Step) Before disconnecting anything: Take clear photos of wire routing and colors Or write them down if you're going old-school Some 1965+ models use connectors that may require a release tool. 5. Disconnect Wiring Under Dash Unplug the turn signal switch harness from beneath the dash. 6. Remove the Turn Signal Switch Back at the column: Remove the (3) mounting screws ONLY Do NOT remove the two large nuts (unless you enjoy fishing dropped studs out of a column…) Carefully pull the switch upward while feeding the wires out of the column. Installation Process 7. Compare Old vs New Switch Before installing: Match wire colors and count Confirm lever compatibility 8. Install New Switch Feed wires down through the column Seat the switch properly Reinstall the (3) retaining screws 9. Reconnect Wiring Plug into under-dash harness Apply dielectric grease to connections for longevity 10. Reassemble Column Reinstall steering wheel Install horn brush (if applicable) Replace spring, horn button/ring Thread in turn signal lever (don’t over tighten) Final Check (Moment of Truth) Reconnect the battery. Now… No smoke? Good sign. No weird noises? Even better. Turn the key and test: Turn signals Brake lights Horn If everything works—you nailed it.If not… well… time to retrace those wiring steps. Pro Tips from the Shop Floor Always photograph wiring before disassembly—memory lies, photos don’t Replace worn horn components while you’re in there Use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion issues Never force the switch or lever during install Need the Right Turn Signal Switch? At C&G Ford Parts, we’ve been helping restorers get it right since 1978. Every part we carry is built for proper fitment and factory-correct function—because guessing doesn’t belong in a restoration. 👉 Browse our selection of classic Ford turn signal switches and get your signals back in sync.

Why This Job Matters This isn’t just about lights—it’s about safety and reliability. A fresh harness eliminates voltage drops, intermittent faults, and those “works when it feels like it” gremlins. It’s one of those upgrades that doesn’t show at the car show, but you’ll feel it every time you drive.

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades.   Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.

Ford Applications Using D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel & D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad Servicing the steering column on classic Ford vehicles often requires removing the steering wheel assembly. When working with steering wheel D4TZ-3600-A and horn pad D3TZ-13A805-A applications, the process is straightforward when approached in the correct sequence and with the proper tool. This guide outlines the removal procedure based on original shop notes and preserves the mechanical order of operations. Application Scope Applies to Ford vehicles equipped with: D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad TOOL-3600 Steering Wheel Puller Application may vary by model year or steering column configuration. Always confirm fitment before ordering replacement components. Original Shop Notes Remove two screws holding horn pad Undo wiring clips for horn pad Loosen steering wheel nut Attach steering wheel tool Loosen wheel Remove tool and nut Remove wheel Step-By-Step Technical Interpretation 1. Remove Horn Pad Retaining Screws The horn pad is secured to the steering wheel by two screws. Removing these fasteners allows access to the internal wiring and steering wheel retaining nut. Use appropriate screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw head. 2. Disconnect Horn Pad Wiring Clips With the horn pad removed, carefully release the wiring clips connected to the horn contact assembly. These clips must be detached before steering wheel removal to prevent wire strain or terminal damage. 3. Loosen the Steering Wheel Retaining Nut Loosen the steering wheel nut but do not remove it completely at this stage. Leaving the nut partially threaded helps protect the steering shaft threads during puller use. 4. Install Steering Wheel Puller (TOOL-3600) Attach the steering wheel puller evenly to the threaded mounting holes in the wheel hub. The puller applies controlled pressure to separate the steering wheel from the tapered steering shaft. Using a puller prevents damage to the wheel hub and avoids stressing the column bearings or shaft splines. 5. Release the Steering Wheel from the Shaft Once the puller is properly secured, gradually tighten the tool until the steering wheel breaks free from the taper. After the wheel loosens, remove the puller and fully remove the steering wheel nut. The steering wheel can then be lifted off the column shaft. When Steering Wheel Removal Is Necessary Steering wheel removal is typically required during: Turn signal switch service Steering column restoration Column bearing inspection Steering wheel replacement Because the steering wheel is mounted on a tapered shaft, proper tool use is recommended to avoid damage. Restoration Considerations On older Ford steering columns, corrosion or age can increase resistance between the wheel hub and shaft taper. Controlled puller pressure is preferable to prying or hammering methods. Inspect wiring connectors and horn contacts while the assembly is disassembled. Access during wheel removal provides an opportunity to evaluate column components without additional tear down. Confirm steering column configuration and model year before ordering steering wheels, horn pads, or related steering components. Explore our full selection of classic Ford steering wheels, horn pads, and steering column components.

Flathead V8 Water Pump & Mount Service Guide1937–1948 Ford Passenger Car | 1939–1948 Mercury V8 Servicing the cooling system on a 1937–1948 Ford passenger car or 1939–1948 Mercury V8 requires more than just swapping a part. The flathead platform integrates the water pumps, front engine mounts, and cooling hoses in a way that makes access and sequencing important. Whether you’re replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, or addressing motor mounts at the same time, the process benefits from a clear plan. The parts referenced here include: 78-8501-PR – Water Pumps 78-8501-HK – Water Pump Bolts 78-6038-BDK – Motor Mounts These components are commonly serviced together on 37–48 Ford and 39–48 Mercury V8 applications due to their physical proximity and shared mounting areas. Why These Systems Overlap On these flathead V8 engines, the water pumps mount at the front of the block and are positioned near the front motor mount assembly. In many cases, removing the pumps requires relieving load from the mounts. Aging rubber mounts can sag over time, changing engine position slightly and complicating pump removal or installation. Addressing motor mounts during cooling system service can help maintain proper engine alignment. Fitment may vary slightly by model year or chassis configuration. Always confirm application for Ford passenger car versus Mercury V8 before ordering parts. Give us a call or email and we will answer your questions! Basic Removal Sequence A structured approach reduces stress on hardware and surrounding components: Drain CoolantBegin by fully draining the cooling system. Open the radiator petcock and, if equipped, block drains to remove as much coolant as possible. Remove Radiator Hoses (Upper and Lower)Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and water pump outlets. Inspect hose condition during removal. Loosen Motor Mount BoltsThe front motor mount assembly may need to be loosened to allow slight engine movement. Do not fully remove the mount until the engine is properly supported. Support the EngineCarefully jack up the engine using a wood block under the oil pan. The wood block helps distribute load. Raise only enough to relieve tension from the mounts. Remove All Eight Water Pump BoltsEach pump is secured with multiple bolts. Remove all mounting hardware evenly to prevent binding. The water pump bolt kit (78-8501-HK) ensures proper hardware replacement if originals are corroded or worn. *PRO TIP there is a bolt in each of the lower water pump outlets. Once the bolts are removed, the water pumps (78-8501-PR) can be removed from the block. Surfaces should be cleaned thoroughly before re-installation. Motor Mount Considerations The motor mount kit (78-6038-BDK) supports the engine’s front weight and isolates vibration from the frame. When mounts are deteriorated, engine position may shift slightly. Replacing mounts during water pump service is practical because access is already established and the engine is supported. Fitment should always be verified for specific Ford passenger car or Mercury V8 applications within the 1937–1948 and 1939–1948 ranges. Restoration-Focused Approach Flathead cooling system service is straightforward when handled methodically. These engines were designed for serviceability, but age introduces corrosion, hardware fatigue, and rubber deterioration. Replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, and motor mounts as a coordinated service helps maintain structural alignment and cooling integrity. Taking the time to follow proper removal steps protects original components and ensures the flathead V8 continues operating as intended. View our full selection of Flathead V8 Water Pumps and Cooling Components.

The 1961–1966 Ford F-Series trucks weren’t just transportation—they were rolling mechanical blueprints.

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For anyone who’s ever turned a wrench on a pre-’54 Ford, the sound of a flathead V8 firing up is pure Samuel Fordway  what was once luxury-car territory available to the everyday American at a price they could actually afford. And for that, it earned legendary status under hoods and in hearts across generations. Before Henry Ford’s bold move, eight-cylinder engines were reserved for high-end makes like Cadillac and Packard. But the Ford Flathead changed all that. It was relatively simple, durable, and easy to work on—qualities still prized by today's restorers. Displacing 221 cubic inches and producing 65 horsepower in its first iteration, the flathead V8 steadily evolved through the years, eventually reaching outputs over 100 hp with the later 239 cid and 255 cid variants used in post-war cars and Mercury models. Beyond raw numbers, what makes the Flathead such an icon is its place in American hot rod culture. In the late ’40s and early ’50s, young gearheads yanked these V8s from junked Fords and dropped them into stripped-down coupes, roadsters, and belly tankers. Speed shops sprang up across the country offering hop-up parts—Edelbrock heads, dual-carb intakes, and Isky cams—turning the Flathead into a street and strip warrior. Today, the Flathead is enjoying a well-deserved renaissance. Whether you're restoring a '40 Ford Deluxe coupe or building a traditional highboy roadster, the right parts make all the difference. Original blocks are getting harder to come by, but high-quality reproduction parts—heads, water pumps, fuel pumps, gaskets, and period-correct hardware—make it possible to bring these iron legends back to life with factory precision. At C&G Ford Parts, we stock the real-deal reproduction parts classic Ford purists demand. Everything we sell is backed by decades of expertise and a crew that owns and drives classics just like yours. Ready to keep that Flathead purring like 1950 all over again? Explore our full line of flathead V8 parts and make history roar.