Tail Light Harness Replacement Guide for 1960–1965 Falcon, Ranchero, and Comet Wagons

Why This Job Matters

This isn’t just about lights—it’s about safety and reliability. A fresh harness eliminates voltage drops, intermittent faults, and those “works when it feels like it” gremlins. It’s one of those upgrades that doesn’t show at the car show, but you’ll feel it every time you drive.

Tail Light Harness Replacement Guide for 1960–1965 Falcon, Ranchero, and Comet Wagons

Tail Light Harness Replacement Guide for 1960–1965 Falcon, Ranchero, and Comet Wagons

If your rear lights are acting like they’ve got a mind of their own—dim, intermittent, or just plain dead—there’s a good chance your tail light harness has seen better decades. On these early ‘60s Fords, wiring lives a hard life: heat, moisture, corrosion, and time all take their toll. Replacing the harness isn’t glamorous work, but it’s one of those fixes that restores confidence every time you hit the brakes.

Let’s walk through it like you’re standing at the bench with a cup of coffee and a wiring diagram that’s seen some things.


Getting Access Without Losing Your Mind

Start inside the car on the driver’s side. You’ll need to remove the scuff plate and kick panel—basic trim pieces, nothing fancy. Wagon and Ranchero setups differ slightly, so expect to pull a few extra panels depending on body style, including pillar covers and rear interior panels. The goal is simple: expose the path of the harness from front to back.

Out back, remove the tail light lenses and then the housings themselves. These are held in from inside the body with nuts. Before you go full teardown mode, take photos. Seriously. This is your breadcrumb trail for reassembly, especially around how the harness routes through the body and where it grounds.


Disconnecting the Old Harness

Under the dash on the driver’s side, you’ll find where the tail light harness ties into the main dash harness. Years of dust and grime can make wire colors look like a bad guessing game, so clean things up first. Label connections with masking tape if needed—future you will appreciate it.

Now move to the rear and start removing the harness. It feeds through grommets on both sides of the body and is held underneath by small metal tabs. Gently bend those tabs to free the wiring. Don’t rush—this is where people accidentally turn a clean job into a repair job.

Pro move: tape the new harness to the old one before pulling it through. That way, as the old harness comes out, the new one follows the exact same path. It’s like having a second set of hands without actually needing one.


Installing the New Harness

Once the new harness is in place, connect it under the dash using dielectric grease to protect the terminals. Then work your way back, routing the harness exactly where the original lived. This isn’t the time to get creative—Ford already figured out the cleanest path.

Seat the new grommets into the body and seal them with a bit of silicone to keep moisture out. Re-bend the retaining tabs underneath to secure the harness.

Before reinstalling the tail lights, take a minute to clean all ground contact points. Use a star washer between the ground wire and the body to ensure a solid connection. Bad grounds are the number one culprit behind weird lighting issues.

Also check:

  • Tail light bulb sockets for corrosion

  • Lens gaskets and housing pads

  • License plate light wiring

A little dielectric grease on all connections goes a long way toward long-term reliability.


Final Check (Moment of Truth)

With everything connected, turn the key to the “on” position and test:

  • Tail lights

  • Brake lights

  • Turn signals

If something’s off, don’t panic—double-check your connections and grounds. Nine times out of ten, that’s where the issue lives.


Why This Job Matters

This isn’t just about lights—it’s about safety and reliability. A fresh harness eliminates voltage drops, intermittent faults, and those “works when it feels like it” gremlins. It’s one of those upgrades that doesn’t show at the car show, but you’ll feel it every time you drive.

And honestly, there’s something satisfying about knowing the electrical system behind you is just as solid as the sheet metal you can see.

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MORE CLASSIC FORD INSIGHTS

Flathead V8 Water Pump and Mount Service Guide

Flathead V8 Water Pump and Mount Service Guide

Flathead V8 Water Pump & Mount Service Guide1937–1948 Ford Passenger Car | 1939–1948 Mercury V8 Servicing the cooling system on a 1937–1948 Ford passenger car or 1939–1948 Mercury V8 requires more than just swapping a part. The flathead platform integrates the water pumps, front engine mounts, and cooling hoses in a way that makes access and sequencing important. Whether you’re replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, or addressing motor mounts at the same time, the process benefits from a clear plan. The parts referenced here include: 78-8501-PR – Water Pumps 78-8501-HK – Water Pump Bolts 78-6038-BDK – Motor Mounts These components are commonly serviced together on 37–48 Ford and 39–48 Mercury V8 applications due to their physical proximity and shared mounting areas. Why These Systems Overlap On these flathead V8 engines, the water pumps mount at the front of the block and are positioned near the front motor mount assembly. In many cases, removing the pumps requires relieving load from the mounts. Aging rubber mounts can sag over time, changing engine position slightly and complicating pump removal or installation. Addressing motor mounts during cooling system service can help maintain proper engine alignment. Fitment may vary slightly by model year or chassis configuration. Always confirm application for Ford passenger car versus Mercury V8 before ordering parts. Give us a call or email and we will answer your questions! Basic Removal Sequence A structured approach reduces stress on hardware and surrounding components: Drain CoolantBegin by fully draining the cooling system. Open the radiator petcock and, if equipped, block drains to remove as much coolant as possible. Remove Radiator Hoses (Upper and Lower)Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and water pump outlets. Inspect hose condition during removal. Loosen Motor Mount BoltsThe front motor mount assembly may need to be loosened to allow slight engine movement. Do not fully remove the mount until the engine is properly supported. Support the EngineCarefully jack up the engine using a wood block under the oil pan. The wood block helps distribute load. Raise only enough to relieve tension from the mounts. Remove All Eight Water Pump BoltsEach pump is secured with multiple bolts. Remove all mounting hardware evenly to prevent binding. The water pump bolt kit (78-8501-HK) ensures proper hardware replacement if originals are corroded or worn. *PRO TIP there is a bolt in each of the lower water pump outlets. Once the bolts are removed, the water pumps (78-8501-PR) can be removed from the block. Surfaces should be cleaned thoroughly before re-installation. Motor Mount Considerations The motor mount kit (78-6038-BDK) supports the engine’s front weight and isolates vibration from the frame. When mounts are deteriorated, engine position may shift slightly. Replacing mounts during water pump service is practical because access is already established and the engine is supported. Fitment should always be verified for specific Ford passenger car or Mercury V8 applications within the 1937–1948 and 1939–1948 ranges. Restoration-Focused Approach Flathead cooling system service is straightforward when handled methodically. These engines were designed for serviceability, but age introduces corrosion, hardware fatigue, and rubber deterioration. Replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, and motor mounts as a coordinated service helps maintain structural alignment and cooling integrity. Taking the time to follow proper removal steps protects original components and ensures the flathead V8 continues operating as intended. View our full selection of Flathead V8 Water Pumps and Cooling Components.
FORD F100

FORD F100 HISTORY

FORD F100 HISTORY In 1953, Ford launched a fresh era of F Series pickups. The 1953 pickups were officially called F-100 and featured sleeker designs with an all-new cab and front end design. This generation of F Series pickups had larger measurements that included 55% larger windshield glass due to its curved design. With the wider cab you can seat 3 full size adults. 1953 Ford also improved chassis now available in 110” and 118” wheelbase (1948-52 is 114”). The gas tank was moved from behind the seat and now mounted on the outside of the frame below the driver’s side of the cab. The upgrades were designed to foster toughness and driving performance. The F Series pickups also took on new names. The F-2 became the F-250. The F-3 was renamed the F-350. Options included a dome light, cigarette lighter, ashtray, sun visors, radio, recirculating air heater and hot water heater. The new name was retained by the F-100 until Ford discontinued production of the F-100 after the 1983 model-year. In 1954 the all-new 239 CID "Y" block engine became available. The 1956 F-100 was celebrated for its perpendicular windshield pillars and its wraparound windshield. Available on the Custom Cab model is a wraparound rear window. The “Y” block 272 was now available as was the 223 6 Cylinder. The gas tank was moved back into the cab behind the seat. Assembly of the F-100 in this time took place mostly in Dearborn, MI. Ford also made approximately 101,000 to 184,000 models of the F100 in Sao Paulo, Brazil. SECOND GENERATION The second generation of the Ford F-100 ran from 1957 through 1960. The important styling change for this generation was a lower hood sitting flush on top of the front fenders. Ford launched its tradition of providing two different pick up box styles in this generation. Separate rear fenders were featured on the traditional Stepside design. The new released Styleside layout featured smooth sides as well as a far more streamlined look. New for 1958 was the use of four headlights, Ford continued this until 1960. In 1959, Ford began making the F-100 with a unique four wheel drive. Ahead of this new development, outside makers such as American and Marmon-Herrington and Coleman occasionally converted normal Ford trucks to four wheel drive. The next generation of the vehicles also marked an increase in sales of the optional eight-foot bed for the F-100, the typical length of the bed was six and a half feet. The eight-foot bed eventually eclipsed its smaller counterpart in popularity among F-100 motorists. Assembly continued to take place in the Ford plant in Dearborn, MI. THE 3RD GENERATION The new pickups were lower to the ground and wider than earlier versions. 1961 F-100 offered the optional uni-body, which combined the cab and box into one body. Ford discontinued the unibody design at the end of the 1963 production after it fared dismally in the marketplace. 1961 and 1962 Ford still used one piece hood side emblems. In 1963 new body side trim was now available on the styleside trucks with a red painted stripe in the center of the trim. The all new hood side emblem now included a plastic insert with the size of the truck “100”, “250”, “350”. In 1965 designers lowered the cab floor enhancing interior room. 1965 Ford also launched the first of its all new front suspension the "Twin I-Beam". 1965 Also offers a 352 "FE" motor instead of the “Y” block 292. The 6 Cylinder engine is also upgraded from the 223 to the new 240. Ford offered the Ranger option in 1965. The designation referred to your field of options that included an interior optional bucket seats with console and carpeting instead of a rubber floor mat. Ford changed some of its own assembly in this time to a plant in Cuautitlan, Mexico. FOURTH GENERATION Ford engineers continued their emphasis on pickups in 1967 that offered a degree of comfort which was similar to a car. 1967 Has new unique hood side emblems. 1967 offered new exterior trim, the body side trim is also new 1-1/4” wide with thin black line top and bottom as well as, available rocker trim. With the new designed cab now includes a new cargo light for the bed at the back of the cab above the rear window. 1968 Changed the hood side emblem to include a reflector. Lower bed side reflectors are standard. The exterior trim is now wider at 1-1/2” wide with the black thin line top and bottom. The Ranger option now includes a grille emblem. New for 1968 is interior door lock knobs. The exterior trim is changed again for 1970. The grille is all new with a plastic inert for either side of the grille. The front of the hood now has a trim going from side to side. The bed side reflector is moved from the lower bed side to the end of the body side trim and now has a light in it. The new Ranger and Ranger XLT trim is now 3-5/8” wide. The new wide trim is available with either black for the Ranger option or woodgrain for the Ranger XLT. 1971 The steering wheel is changed to a two spoke wheel with optional black or woodgrain horn pad. FIFTH GENERATION OF THE F100 AND INTRODUCTION OF THE F-150 The F-100 underwent major refinements for the fifth generation of the F Series, which ran from 1973 through 1979. Ford released the F-150, a fresh version, in 1973. The F-150 was essentially an F-100 with a spring package in the front and back that enabled the vehicle to carry a heavier load. Ford stopped production of the 4x4 F-100 in 1978. New grille with new plastic inserts for 1973 with the plastic insert now going around the headlight. The XLT option now included a grille emblem. The side trim was now available with a rubber insert down the center of the trim. The side reflectors now had light sockets with the front ones mounted in the front fenders and the rear still at the back of the bed trim. With the all new dash design trucks optioned with factory air conditioning now had vents in the dash for the air to go through and no longer was the air conditioning unit hanging from under the dash. 1974 Ford offered the new “Super Cab” with had a back bench seat and quarter windows behind the door. The new quarter windows were available fixed and with a pop out version. 1977 Offered a new exterior rim called “Race Trak” trim. The trim was a thin molding that started on the front fender at the grille and went down the side of the truck and curved up the bed side to meet the body side trim. Mid year 1978 Ford switch to square headlights which became standard for the F series trucks. Ford stopped producing the venerable F-100 entirely following the 1983 model year. Fans of Ford F-100 pickups and Ford automobiles in general are motivated to see cgfordparts.com. The site is an excellent resource for locating thousands of old Ford parts now in reproduction. The expert staff members are prepared to answer questions and share their knowledge of Ford restoration.
1979 Ford F150

1979 Ford F150

1979 Ford F150 The 1979 Ford F150 stands as a significant chapter in the storied history of Ford trucks. Known for its durability, classic design, and utility, the '79 F150 is a beloved model among enthusiasts of classic Ford automobiles. Specifications Engine Options: The 1979 F150 came with various engine options, including: 4.9L 300 Inline-6: A reliable workhorse known for its longevity. 5.0L 302 V8: Offered a balance of power and efficiency. 5.8L 351M V8 and 6.6L 400 V8: These larger engines were preferred for heavier towing and payload capacities. Transmission: Standard: 3-speed manual. Optional: 4-speed manual and 3-speed automatic. Dimensions: Wheelbase: Ranged from 117 inches (regular cab, short bed) to 155 inches (SuperCab, long bed). Length: Varied based on the model, from 188.5 inches to 235 inches. Width: Approximately 79 inches. Towing and Payload: Depended on the engine and configuration, with the larger engines supporting greater capacities. Part Numbers: Locating specific part numbers for a vehicle as old as the 1979 F150 can be challenging. However, some common parts include: Brake Pads: D84-2 Oil Filter: FL-1A Spark Plugs: AGSF32. For more specific parts and their numbers, enthusiasts often refer to vintage Ford parts catalogs or online forums. A great place to get real people to talk parts with, is C&G Ford Parts in Escondido, California. Production Numbers: Ford does not publicly release detailed production numbers by year and model. However, it's known that the F-Series was America's best-selling truck in 1979, contributing significantly to the series' overall sales. The F150's popularity in this era helped solidify its legacy in the Ford lineup. Accessories and Customization: The 1979 F150 was often customized and accessorized, reflecting the owner's needs and style. Popular accessories included: Chrome Bumpers: For enhanced aesthetics. Toolboxes: Fitted in the bed for utility. Lift Kits: Many owners lifted their trucks for off-road capability or for a more imposing road presence. Custom Paint Jobs: Reflecting the era's penchant for personalization. Conclusion: The 1979 Ford F150 remains a beloved classic. Its robust construction, range of engine options, and classic styling have ensured its lasting appeal. While specific part numbers and production figures can be elusive, the truck's impact on the automotive landscape is undeniable. Whether restored to its original glory or customized for modern roads, the '79 F150 continues to be a symbol of Americana and the enduring legacy of Ford trucks.