All: OLD FORD TRUCKS
Exploring an American Classic The Ford F100
The Ford F100, a member of the renowned F-Series, has a rich history that spans decades, evolving from a utilitarian work truck to a sought-after classic. Originally designed to meet the demands of post-war America, the F-100 has since become a symbol of vintage style and automotive nostalgia.
The F-100 debuted in 1953, a milestone that marked the second generation of Ford's F-Series. Known for its increased dimensions, improved engines, and updated aesthetics, the F-100 was a significant upgrade from its predecessors. It featured a more powerful 215cid inline-six engine, with an option for a 239cid V8, delivering robust performance for the era. The truck boasted a maximum payload capacity of approximately 1,000 to 1,500 pounds, catering to the needs of businesses and individual users alike.
In terms of pricing, the F-100 was marketed as an affordable, reliable work truck. Prices started around $1,600, a figure that, when adjusted for inflation, underscores the truck's value proposition. Fast forward to the present, and the Ford F100 occupies a different space in the automotive world. No longer just a work vehicle, it has become a beloved classic, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts.
The market for vintage F-100s has seen a significant uptick, with fully restored models fetching prices upwards of $20,000 to $30,000, and exceptional specimens or custom builds going even higher. The appeal of the F-100 in today's market lies in its simplicity, classic design, and the nostalgia it evokes. It's a canvas for customization, with a thriving aftermarket offering everything from original replacement parts to modern upgrades.
The versatility of the F-100 makes it a favorite among those looking to create a personalized classic that combines vintage charm with modern performance. The demand for original equipment specifications remains high, with purists seeking to restore F-100s to their factory glory. This desire for authenticity reflects a broader trend in the classic car market, where originality often equates to higher value.
Conclusion
The Ford F-100's journey from a practical utility vehicle to a cherished classic is a testament to its enduring appeal. In the current market, it embodies a blend of history, style, and the enduring legacy of Ford's commitment to utility and innovation. Whether restored to its original specifications or customized to modern tastes, the F-100 remains a beloved piece of American automotive history, with a vibrant community of enthusiasts keeping its spirit alive.
INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR INTO OLD FORD TRUCKS AND CARS
INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR
1932-1941 Old Ford Trucks, 1932-1941 Ford Passenger Cars and 1939-1941 Mercury Cars with original V8 distributor:
1. Check inner caps one at a time to make sure they fit distributor housing, sand them if needed. Also check to make sure once installed rotor does not hit the inner cap. After fitting inner caps put inner and outer caps together with the spark plug wires and set aside.
2. Mount coil to distributor making sure coil brush makes contact with rotor and copper contact is not bent.
3. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach.
4. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the three mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug).
5. Install inner/outer caps to the distributor and pop the bail over to hold in place.
6. Install vacuum line to distributor.
1941-47 (6 Cylinder “G” Engine) Old Ford Trucks and Passenger Cars, 1942-1947 Old Ford Trucks and 1942-1948 Passenger Cars/Mercury Cars (V8):
1. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach.
2. Place the rotor on distributor and mount distributor cap and turn rotor slowly to make sure the rotor does not hit the inner cap. If rotor hits cap lightly file end of rotor till it clears. Remove distributor cap and set aside. Leave rotor on distributor.
3. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket, be sure not to get sealant on vacuum rubber grommet. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the two mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug).
4. Install distributor cap and pop clips on for 42 crab cap. If you have a 46-48 with the inner and outer cap you will have to install plug wires into cap first before installing caps on distributor.
Old Ford Drum Brake History and Tutorial
Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial
Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum.
There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use.
The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times.
Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake.
Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards.
Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road.
Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well.
Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas.
Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly.
You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum.
If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once.
You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants.
When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle.
When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.
Ford F100 Parts
Owning or restoring a Ford F100 means that you’ll need easy access to Ford F100 parts whenever you need them.
You want the right parts to keep your classic humming along for as long as you own it. If you’ve had your Ford for several years, then you probably already know where to get your hands on Ford F100 parts when you need them. If you don’t know because you haven’t had any issues with the truck until now, there are a lot of different ways you can find what you need. Check out places where other classic vehicle enthusiasts gather and talk to them. You can find groups that hang out on or offline. In some towns, the local drive-in restaurant has an area where classic car owners will gather on the weekends in order to show off their cars.
The best place that you can buy Ford F100 parts is from an online store where the employees know about older model cars and trucks and can easily locate or order exactly what you need and ship it right to your doorstep. C&G Ford Parts fits that bill nicely. If you’ve already diagnosed the issue with your Ford and know exactly what part it is that you need, then getting it is going to be fairly simple. But, if like a lot of people, you don’t have in depth knowledge about what could be causing your truck’s issue, the pros can help if they specialize in classic car parts. Many of the employees in a classic auto part business have a love and admiration for the classics and they really know the older vehicles inside and out. Plus, by serving a lot of classic car owners when they have needs, this business more than likely has a lot experience with a wide range of vehicle problems. They may have heard all kinds of stories about what’s going on with the Ford truck and helped other owners with the right Ford F100 parts. Not only will the site know what you’re looking for, but a lot of times, if you ask them how to put a part on, they can tell you how or share online video tutorials with you and save you time.
You gain the benefit of their parts knowledge as well as their mechanical knowledge for the same price. What they may suggest and you may find helpful, is to get a catalog of the parts that they do carry so that you’ll have a listing of the parts and the prices. For most classic vehicle owners, they want their F100 truck in pristine condition inside and out. Getting a part that’s “good enough” isn’t enough, they want the best Ford F100 parts.
1979 Ford F150
1979 Ford F150
The 1979 Ford F150 stands as a significant chapter in the storied history of Ford trucks. Known for its durability, classic design, and utility, the '79 F150 is a beloved model among enthusiasts of classic Ford automobiles.
Specifications
Engine Options: The 1979 F150 came with various engine options, including: 4.9L 300 Inline-6: A reliable workhorse known for its longevity. 5.0L 302 V8: Offered a balance of power and efficiency. 5.8L 351M V8 and 6.6L 400 V8: These larger engines were preferred for heavier towing and payload capacities.
Transmission: Standard: 3-speed manual. Optional: 4-speed manual and 3-speed automatic.
Dimensions: Wheelbase: Ranged from 117 inches (regular cab, short bed) to 155 inches (SuperCab, long bed). Length: Varied based on the model, from 188.5 inches to 235 inches. Width: Approximately 79 inches.
Towing and Payload: Depended on the engine and configuration, with the larger engines supporting greater capacities.
Part Numbers: Locating specific part numbers for a vehicle as old as the 1979 F150 can be challenging. However, some common parts include: Brake Pads: D84-2 Oil Filter: FL-1A Spark Plugs: AGSF32. For more specific parts and their numbers, enthusiasts often refer to vintage Ford parts catalogs or online forums. A great place to get real people to talk parts with, is C&G Ford Parts in Escondido, California.
Production Numbers: Ford does not publicly release detailed production numbers by year and model. However, it's known that the F-Series was America's best-selling truck in 1979, contributing significantly to the series' overall sales. The F150's popularity in this era helped solidify its legacy in the Ford lineup.
Accessories and Customization: The 1979 F150 was often customized and accessorized, reflecting the owner's needs and style. Popular accessories included: Chrome Bumpers: For enhanced aesthetics. Toolboxes: Fitted in the bed for utility. Lift Kits: Many owners lifted their trucks for off-road capability or for a more imposing road presence. Custom Paint Jobs: Reflecting the era's penchant for personalization.
Conclusion: The 1979 Ford F150 remains a beloved classic. Its robust construction, range of engine options, and classic styling have ensured its lasting appeal. While specific part numbers and production figures can be elusive, the truck's impact on the automotive landscape is undeniable. Whether restored to its original glory or customized for modern roads, the '79 F150 continues to be a symbol of Americana and the enduring legacy of Ford trucks.