INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR INTO OLD FORD TRUCKS AND CARS

 37-41 Old Ford Trucks, Old Ford Car and Old Mercury Car Distributor

INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR

1932-1941 Old Ford Trucks, 1932-1941 Ford Passenger Cars and 1939-1941 Mercury Cars with original V8 distributor:

1. Check inner caps one at a time to make sure they fit distributor housing, sand them if needed. Also check to make sure once installed rotor does not hit the inner cap. After fitting inner caps put inner and outer caps together with the spark plug wires and set aside.

2. Mount coil to distributor making sure coil brush makes contact with rotor and copper contact is not bent.

3. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach.

4. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the three mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug).

5. Install inner/outer caps to the distributor and pop the bail over to hold in place.

6. Install vacuum line to distributor.

1941-47 (6 Cylinder “G” Engine) Old Ford Trucks and Passenger Cars, 1942-1947 Old Ford Trucks and 1942-1948 Passenger Cars/Mercury Cars (V8):

1. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach.

2. Place the rotor on distributor and mount distributor cap and turn rotor slowly to make sure the rotor does not hit the inner cap. If rotor hits cap lightly file end of rotor till it clears. Remove distributor cap and set aside. Leave rotor on distributor.

3. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket, be sure not to get sealant on vacuum rubber grommet. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the two mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug).

4. Install distributor cap and pop clips on for 42 crab cap. If you have a 46-48 with the inner and outer cap you will have to install plug wires into cap first before installing caps on distributor.

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.

MORE CLASSIC FORD INSIGHTS

Reproduction parts vs used/nos

Reproduction parts vs used/nos

As a classic Ford enthusiast, my journey in the realm of restoration has been nothing short of exhausting. The thrill of bringing a vintage beauty back to its former glory is unparalleled. However, this passion comes with its challenges, the most significant being sourcing the right parts. This is where classic reproduction Ford parts have become a game-changer for someone like me. For years, the pursuit of authentic, original used and NOS parts was akin to searching for a needle in a haystack. These parts, often scarce and very expensive, could mean the difference between a stalled project and a triumphant restoration. Then entered the world of reproduction parts – a world that has not only made restoration more accessible but also more reliable. Initially, I was skeptical about using reproduction parts. Would they fit correctly? Would they maintain the authentic look and feel of my classic Ford? These concerns, however, were quickly dispelled. Modern reproduction parts are crafted so that they seamlessly blend with the original components. Manufacturers use advanced technologies and materials to replicate parts. One of the biggest advantages I've experienced with reproduction parts is the availability of parts. Unlike original parts, which may have undergone decades of wear and tear, reproduction parts are brand new and often incorporate modern engineering improvements. This doesn't just bring peace of mind; it enhances the driving experience, making it safer and more enjoyable. From a cost perspective, reproduction parts are generally more affordable than their NOS counterparts. This affordability has allowed me to allocate resources to other aspects of restoration, like professional paint jobs or interior refurbishments. Moreover, the availability of these parts means less time scouring swap meets and more time in the garage, doing what I love. In conclusion, classic reproduction Ford parts have transformed the restoration landscape for enthusiasts like me. They bridge the gap between the past and the present, ensuring that the legacy of classic Fords continues to cruise down our roads, not just reside in our memories. They are a testament to the evolving nature of car restoration, blending tradition with innovation, and keeping the spirit of classic Fords alive and roaring.
Steering Wheel Removal Guide

Steering Wheel Removal Guide

Ford Applications Using D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel & D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad Servicing the steering column on classic Ford vehicles often requires removing the steering wheel assembly. When working with steering wheel D4TZ-3600-A and horn pad D3TZ-13A805-A applications, the process is straightforward when approached in the correct sequence and with the proper tool. This guide outlines the removal procedure based on original shop notes and preserves the mechanical order of operations. Application Scope Applies to Ford vehicles equipped with: D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad TOOL-3600 Steering Wheel Puller Application may vary by model year or steering column configuration. Always confirm fitment before ordering replacement components. Original Shop Notes Remove two screws holding horn pad Undo wiring clips for horn pad Loosen steering wheel nut Attach steering wheel tool Loosen wheel Remove tool and nut Remove wheel Step-By-Step Technical Interpretation 1. Remove Horn Pad Retaining Screws The horn pad is secured to the steering wheel by two screws. Removing these fasteners allows access to the internal wiring and steering wheel retaining nut. Use appropriate screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw head. 2. Disconnect Horn Pad Wiring Clips With the horn pad removed, carefully release the wiring clips connected to the horn contact assembly. These clips must be detached before steering wheel removal to prevent wire strain or terminal damage. 3. Loosen the Steering Wheel Retaining Nut Loosen the steering wheel nut but do not remove it completely at this stage. Leaving the nut partially threaded helps protect the steering shaft threads during puller use. 4. Install Steering Wheel Puller (TOOL-3600) Attach the steering wheel puller evenly to the threaded mounting holes in the wheel hub. The puller applies controlled pressure to separate the steering wheel from the tapered steering shaft. Using a puller prevents damage to the wheel hub and avoids stressing the column bearings or shaft splines. 5. Release the Steering Wheel from the Shaft Once the puller is properly secured, gradually tighten the tool until the steering wheel breaks free from the taper. After the wheel loosens, remove the puller and fully remove the steering wheel nut. The steering wheel can then be lifted off the column shaft. When Steering Wheel Removal Is Necessary Steering wheel removal is typically required during: Turn signal switch service Steering column restoration Column bearing inspection Steering wheel replacement Because the steering wheel is mounted on a tapered shaft, proper tool use is recommended to avoid damage. Restoration Considerations On older Ford steering columns, corrosion or age can increase resistance between the wheel hub and shaft taper. Controlled puller pressure is preferable to prying or hammering methods. Inspect wiring connectors and horn contacts while the assembly is disassembled. Access during wheel removal provides an opportunity to evaluate column components without additional tear down. Confirm steering column configuration and model year before ordering steering wheels, horn pads, or related steering components. Explore our full selection of classic Ford steering wheels, horn pads, and steering column components.
1959 PARK LIGHT HOUSINGS

1959 PASSENGER/RANCHERO PARK LIGHT HOUSINGS

INTRODUCING A NEW ITEM, THE 1959 PASSENGER AND RANCHERO PARK LIGHT HOUSINGS!