1979 Ford F150

Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum. There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use. The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times. Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake. Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards. Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road. Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well. Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas. Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly. You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum. If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once. You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants. When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle. When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.

The world of classic Ford parts is a niche fueled by a unique blend of nostalgia, engineering marvel, and a deep-seated passion for automotive history. This niche isn't just about maintaining or restoring old vehicles; it's about preserving a legacy, a piece of Americana that has shaped and been shaped by decades of innovation and culture. At the heart of this niche are the classic Fords themselves - from the groundbreaking Model T, the first car to be mass-produced, to the Mustang, an icon of American muscle and the F series pick ups which supply the backbone of America. Each model represents a different era, a distinct style of engineering and design. Restoring these vehicles is more than a hobby; it's a journey back in time, an attempt to capture the essence of an era long gone. For those immersed in the classic Ford parts niche, the hunt components is a significant part of the excitement. These enthusiasts spend countless hours searching through auto flea markets, online forums, and specialty shops for that perfect part. The joy of finding a rare, original component can be as exhilarating as driving the restored vehicle itself. The community aspect of this niche is incredibly strong. Across the world, classic Ford owners and restorers come together, both online and in person, to share stories, exchange knowledge, and offer support. Car shows and meet-ups turn into celebrations of these automotive treasures, where the beauty and craftsmanship of classic Fords are displayed with pride. Moreover, the classic Ford parts niche is not just about the past; it's about sustainability. In a world increasingly concerned with environmental impact, restoring and maintaining older vehicles is a form of recycling, giving new life to old Fords that might otherwise be forgotten relics. In essence, the classic Ford parts niche is more than a collection of old cars and their components. It's a testament to the enduring impact of Ford's innovations on automotive culture. It's a community bound by a shared passion for the art of restoration, a reverence for history, and the thrill of bringing a piece of that history back to life. For many, it's not just a hobby; it's a way of connecting with the past and preserving it for future generations. Here at C&G Ford Parts we specialize in reproduction Ford parts.

Since you buy all your classic Ford parts from us, we thought we would enlighten you to a product that you might find useful! Let’s say you’re cruising around town in your Classic Ford… you’re reveling in the number of folks you see looking at your ride (yes your car, not you anymore). You roll to a stop easily and decide to turn the corner and drive down Main Street to see if any of your buddies have made it to the Burger Barn. Suddenly, you feel “clunk” and you KNOW the old Ford didn’t come that way from the factory, so you begin to wonder “Hmmm, what could the old girl need now?”Finishing the cruise you head home and call it a night. Next day you’re up and at ‘em, headed out to the garage. You whizz past your wife in your grubby's and wonder for a moment why she has a big grin on her face, “Oh well, she musta been on the phone” you figure. With a big grin on your face and a wave to the wife, you whistle out loud as you head out the door thinking, “I’ll be at this most of the day” After organizing your tool box and getting everything ready for troubleshooting you begin to diagnose what could be ailing your “baby”. After troubleshooting for a while, you begin to realize that the bushing in the upper steering tube has worn out. It turned to rock and the steering shaft is wobbling around in the tube causing the clunk you felt last night. “Well, that’s a relief” you gush, “I don’t need to tear apart the front end!” “I wonder if Ford has a warranty recall on those” you chuckle to yourself as you pull your dog eared copy of your trusty C&G Ford Parts catalog off the shelf. You see that there is a replacement rubber upper bushing that often gets worn out over the years. “Just what I need” you think. “Hold the phone, what’s this?” you spot a new- fangled “kit” that only C&G has! This Upper Steering tube bearing kit includes bearing, spring, and bushing sleeve that replaces the original rubber bushing for a longer lasting, easier turning, tight fit. The kit includes a diagram to show you exactly where to install the parts, and in it what order. “Excellent” you whistle. So you pick up the phone, call C&G and after speaking to some friendly and knowledgeable parts folk, you have your kit on the way. A couple days later, your classic Ford parts show up and you’re ready to install the new B-3517-K kit you ordered. Remove the steering wheel. Remove original rubber bushing from over worm shaft. Install in this order- bearing , sleeve , spring. Make sure the tapered ends are facing down on both bearing and sleeve, drive the bearing down the worm shaft about 3/4" with a large socket, then let sleeve follow. Finally, put spring over worm shaft, in-between the sleeve and the steering wheel. Put steering wheel back on and tighten down the steering nut. No more play in the upper part of the column! Steering Tube Bearing Kit B-3517-K