Ford F-Series

FORD F100 HISTORY

In 1953, Ford launched a fresh era of F Series pickups. The 1953 pickups were officially called F-100 and featured sleeker designs with an all-new cab and front end design. This generation of F Series pickups had larger measurements that included 55% larger windshield glass due to its curved design. With the wider cab you can seat 3 full size adults. 1953 Ford also improved chassis now available in 110” and 118” wheelbase (1948-52 is 114”). The gas tank was moved from behind the seat and now mounted on the outside of the frame below the driver’s side of the cab. The upgrades were designed to foster toughness and driving performance. The F Series pickups also took on new names. The F-2 became the F-250. The F-3 was renamed the F-350. Options included a dome light, cigarette lighter, ashtray, sun visors, radio, recirculating air heater and hot water heater. The new name was retained by the F-100 until Ford discontinued production of the F-100 after the 1983 model-year. In 1954 the all-new 239 CID "Y" block engine became available. The 1956 F-100 was celebrated for its perpendicular windshield pillars and its wraparound windshield. Available on the Custom Cab model is a wraparound rear window. The “Y” block 272 was now available as was the 223 6 Cylinder. The gas tank was moved back into the cab behind the seat. Assembly of the F-100 in this time took place mostly in Dearborn, MI. Ford also made approximately 101,000 to 184,000 models of the F100 in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

SECOND GENERATION

The second generation of the Ford F-100 ran from 1957 through 1960. The important styling change for this generation was a lower hood sitting flush on top of the front fenders. Ford launched its tradition of providing two different pick up box styles in this generation. Separate rear fenders were featured on the traditional Stepside design. The new released Styleside layout featured smooth sides as well as a far more streamlined look. New for 1958 was the use of four headlights, Ford continued this until 1960. In 1959, Ford began making the F-100 with a unique four wheel drive. Ahead of this new development, outside makers such as American and Marmon-Herrington and Coleman occasionally converted normal Ford trucks to four wheel drive. The next generation of the vehicles also marked an increase in sales of the optional eight-foot bed for the F-100, the typical length of the bed was six and a half feet. The eight-foot bed eventually eclipsed its smaller counterpart in popularity among F-100 motorists. Assembly continued to take place in the Ford plant in Dearborn, MI.

THE 3RD GENERATION

The new pickups were lower to the ground and wider than earlier versions. 1961 F-100 offered the optional uni-body, which combined the cab and box into one body. Ford discontinued the unibody design at the end of the 1963 production after it fared dismally in the marketplace. 1961 and 1962 Ford still used one piece hood side emblems. In 1963 new body side trim was now available on the styleside trucks with a red painted stripe in the center of the trim. The all new hood side emblem now included a plastic insert with the size of the truck “100”, “250”, “350”. In 1965 designers lowered the cab floor enhancing interior room. 1965 Ford also launched the first of its all new front suspension the "Twin I-Beam". 1965 Also offers a 352 "FE" motor instead of the “Y” block 292. The 6 Cylinder engine is also upgraded from the 223 to the new 240. Ford offered the Ranger option in 1965. The designation referred to your field of options that included an interior optional bucket seats with console and carpeting instead of a rubber floor mat. Ford changed some of its own assembly in this time to a plant in Cuautitlan, Mexico.

FOURTH GENERATION

Ford engineers continued their emphasis on pickups in 1967 that offered a degree of comfort which was similar to a car. 1967 Has new unique hood side emblems. 1967 offered new exterior trim, the body side trim is also new 1-1/4” wide with thin black line top and bottom as well as, available rocker trim. With the new designed cab now includes a new cargo light for the bed at the back of the cab above the rear window. 1968 Changed the hood side emblem to include a reflector. Lower bed side reflectors are standard. The exterior trim is now wider at 1-1/2” wide with the black thin line top and bottom. The Ranger option now includes a grille emblem. New for 1968 is interior door lock knobs. The exterior trim is changed again for 1970. The grille is all new with a plastic inert for either side of the grille. The front of the hood now has a trim going from side to side. The bed side reflector is moved from the lower bed side to the end of the body side trim and now has a light in it. The new Ranger and Ranger XLT trim is now 3-5/8” wide. The new wide trim is available with either black for the Ranger option or woodgrain for the Ranger XLT. 1971 The steering wheel is changed to a two spoke wheel with optional black or woodgrain horn pad.

FIFTH GENERATION OF THE F100 AND INTRODUCTION OF THE F-150

The F-100 underwent major refinements for the fifth generation of the F Series, which ran from 1973 through 1979. Ford released the F-150, a fresh version, in 1973. The F-150 was essentially an F-100 with a spring package in the front and back that enabled the vehicle to carry a heavier load. Ford stopped production of the 4x4 F-100 in 1978. New grille with new plastic inserts for 1973 with the plastic insert now going around the headlight. The XLT option now included a grille emblem. The side trim was now available with a rubber insert down the center of the trim. The side reflectors now had light sockets with the front ones mounted in the front fenders and the rear still at the back of the bed trim. With the all new dash design trucks optioned with factory air conditioning now had vents in the dash for the air to go through and no longer was the air conditioning unit hanging from under the dash. 1974 Ford offered the new “Super Cab” with had a back bench seat and quarter windows behind the door. The new quarter windows were available fixed and with a pop out version. 1977 Offered a new exterior rim called “Race Trak” trim. The trim was a thin molding that started on the front fender at the grille and went down the side of the truck and curved up the bed side to meet the body side trim. Mid year 1978 Ford switch to square headlights which became standard for the F series trucks. Ford stopped producing the venerable F-100 entirely following the 1983 model year.

Fans of Ford F-100 pickups and Ford automobiles in general are motivated to see cgfordparts.com. The site is an excellent resource for locating thousands of old Ford parts now in reproduction. The expert staff members are prepared to answer questions and share their knowledge of Ford restoration.

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Old Ford Parts

Reproduction parts vs used/nos

As a classic Ford enthusiast, my journey in the realm of restoration has been nothing short of exhausting. The thrill of bringing a vintage beauty back to its former glory is unparalleled. However, this passion comes with its challenges, the most significant being sourcing the right parts. This is where classic reproduction Ford parts have become a game-changer for someone like me. For years, the pursuit of authentic, original used and NOS parts was akin to searching for a needle in a haystack. These parts, often scarce and very expensive, could mean the difference between a stalled project and a triumphant restoration. Then entered the world of reproduction parts – a world that has not only made restoration more accessible but also more reliable. Initially, I was skeptical about using reproduction parts. Would they fit correctly? Would they maintain the authentic look and feel of my classic Ford? These concerns, however, were quickly dispelled. Modern reproduction parts are crafted so that they seamlessly blend with the original components. Manufacturers use advanced technologies and materials to replicate parts. One of the biggest advantages I've experienced with reproduction parts is the availability of parts. Unlike original parts, which may have undergone decades of wear and tear, reproduction parts are brand new and often incorporate modern engineering improvements. This doesn't just bring peace of mind; it enhances the driving experience, making it safer and more enjoyable. From a cost perspective, reproduction parts are generally more affordable than their NOS counterparts. This affordability has allowed me to allocate resources to other aspects of restoration, like professional paint jobs or interior refurbishments. Moreover, the availability of these parts means less time scouring swap meets and more time in the garage, doing what I love. In conclusion, classic reproduction Ford parts have transformed the restoration landscape for enthusiasts like me. They bridge the gap between the past and the present, ensuring that the legacy of classic Fords continues to cruise down our roads, not just reside in our memories. They are a testament to the evolving nature of car restoration, blending tradition with innovation, and keeping the spirit of classic Fords alive and roaring.

Steering Wheel Removal Guide

Ford Applications Using D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel & D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad Servicing the steering column on classic Ford vehicles often requires removing the steering wheel assembly. When working with steering wheel D4TZ-3600-A and horn pad D3TZ-13A805-A applications, the process is straightforward when approached in the correct sequence and with the proper tool. This guide outlines the removal procedure based on original shop notes and preserves the mechanical order of operations. Application Scope Applies to Ford vehicles equipped with: D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad TOOL-3600 Steering Wheel Puller Application may vary by model year or steering column configuration. Always confirm fitment before ordering replacement components. Original Shop Notes Remove two screws holding horn pad Undo wiring clips for horn pad Loosen steering wheel nut Attach steering wheel tool Loosen wheel Remove tool and nut Remove wheel Step-By-Step Technical Interpretation 1. Remove Horn Pad Retaining Screws The horn pad is secured to the steering wheel by two screws. Removing these fasteners allows access to the internal wiring and steering wheel retaining nut. Use appropriate screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw head. 2. Disconnect Horn Pad Wiring Clips With the horn pad removed, carefully release the wiring clips connected to the horn contact assembly. These clips must be detached before steering wheel removal to prevent wire strain or terminal damage. 3. Loosen the Steering Wheel Retaining Nut Loosen the steering wheel nut but do not remove it completely at this stage. Leaving the nut partially threaded helps protect the steering shaft threads during puller use. 4. Install Steering Wheel Puller (TOOL-3600) Attach the steering wheel puller evenly to the threaded mounting holes in the wheel hub. The puller applies controlled pressure to separate the steering wheel from the tapered steering shaft. Using a puller prevents damage to the wheel hub and avoids stressing the column bearings or shaft splines. 5. Release the Steering Wheel from the Shaft Once the puller is properly secured, gradually tighten the tool until the steering wheel breaks free from the taper. After the wheel loosens, remove the puller and fully remove the steering wheel nut. The steering wheel can then be lifted off the column shaft. When Steering Wheel Removal Is Necessary Steering wheel removal is typically required during: Turn signal switch service Steering column restoration Column bearing inspection Steering wheel replacement Because the steering wheel is mounted on a tapered shaft, proper tool use is recommended to avoid damage. Restoration Considerations On older Ford steering columns, corrosion or age can increase resistance between the wheel hub and shaft taper. Controlled puller pressure is preferable to prying or hammering methods. Inspect wiring connectors and horn contacts while the assembly is disassembled. Access during wheel removal provides an opportunity to evaluate column components without additional tear down. Confirm steering column configuration and model year before ordering steering wheels, horn pads, or related steering components. Explore our full selection of classic Ford steering wheels, horn pads, and steering column components.

1960-65 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades. Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.