Steering Wheel Removal Guide

Turn Signal Switch Removal & Replacement Guide Classic Ford Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Comet & F-Series Trucks (1960s–1970s) If your turn signals are acting up—or just plain dead—it’s often the switch inside the column calling it quits. The good news? This is a very doable repair with basic tools and a little patience. Below is a step-by-step guide to replacing classic Ford turn signal switches, including popular part numbers like C3OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-HQ, C9TZ-13341-C, and C9TZ-13341-USA. Why Replace Your Turn Signal Switch? A worn or failing turn signal switch can cause: Intermittent or non-functioning signals Brake light issues Horn malfunctions (shared circuit in many models) Replacing it restores proper electrical function and keeps your classic Ford safe—and road legal. Tools & Prep Steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) Small crescent wrench Screwdrivers Dielectric grease Phone (for reference photos—trust me on this one) First rule: Disconnect the battery ground cable. Always. Step-by-Step Removal 1. Remove the Turn Signal Lever Twist the lever out. If it’s stubborn, use a small crescent wrench on the flat spot found on most originals. 2. Remove Horn Button or Ring Push down and turn left to release.⚠️ Go slow—there’s a spring underneath that likes to make a break for freedom. Inspect horn ring retainer Remove horn brush if equipped 3. Pull the Steering Wheel Use your steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) and set the wheel aside. 4. Document Wiring (Critical Step) Before disconnecting anything: Take clear photos of wire routing and colors Or write them down if you're going old-school Some 1965+ models use connectors that may require a release tool. 5. Disconnect Wiring Under Dash Unplug the turn signal switch harness from beneath the dash. 6. Remove the Turn Signal Switch Back at the column: Remove the (3) mounting screws ONLY Do NOT remove the two large nuts (unless you enjoy fishing dropped studs out of a column…) Carefully pull the switch upward while feeding the wires out of the column. Installation Process 7. Compare Old vs New Switch Before installing: Match wire colors and count Confirm lever compatibility 8. Install New Switch Feed wires down through the column Seat the switch properly Reinstall the (3) retaining screws 9. Reconnect Wiring Plug into under-dash harness Apply dielectric grease to connections for longevity 10. Reassemble Column Reinstall steering wheel Install horn brush (if applicable) Replace spring, horn button/ring Thread in turn signal lever (don’t over tighten) Final Check (Moment of Truth) Reconnect the battery. Now… No smoke? Good sign. No weird noises? Even better. Turn the key and test: Turn signals Brake lights Horn If everything works—you nailed it.If not… well… time to retrace those wiring steps. Pro Tips from the Shop Floor Always photograph wiring before disassembly—memory lies, photos don’t Replace worn horn components while you’re in there Use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion issues Never force the switch or lever during install Need the Right Turn Signal Switch? At C&G Ford Parts, we’ve been helping restorers get it right since 1978. Every part we carry is built for proper fitment and factory-correct function—because guessing doesn’t belong in a restoration. 👉 Browse our selection of classic Ford turn signal switches and get your signals back in sync.

Classic Ford Parts for Classy Old Fords Seeing a vintage Ford gleaming in the sun at a local car show is a treat for the eyes, but even these beautiful vehicles need parts to keep them running smoothly. When something does go wrong with the vehicle, you need to find a store like ours – some place that understands the intricacies of troubleshooting and replacing old Ford parts and understands the mindset of the early Ford owner. You need to know that our selection covers 1932 through 1972 Old Ford cars and 1932 through 1979 old Ford trucks. We ship worldwide Monday through Friday. Unfortunately, you probably already personally experienced, and know all too well, what happens when you walk into a chain auto parts store looking for a part for a 1932 anything that Ford rolled off the assembly line. You’ll get a blank look for your asking. You might get lucky and the counter person will do a google search followed by a “no” if you’re lucky, or a shoulder shrug if you’re not. That’s because these shops carry more parts for current vehicles less than 10 years old and practically nothing for the Old Fords. So as a proof of concept; plug all the information about what you need for your vehicle into the online search area of a chain auto parts store, you’ll see no results and you’re back to square one. You can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by going straight to people like Kyle, Lee, Kristian or Joe – folks who know how important classic Ford parts are and exactly how to get those quality reproduction parts into your hands. People who own vintage Ford vehicles themselves. That’s one of the reasons we have over 200 vendors and tens of thousands of parts on the shelf, so that these vehicles get the right parts they need and will keep running long after other makes are sitting on the sidelines. When it comes to working on these old Ford vehicles, we have what you need, the folks who understand what you need and the "how it works", as well as the ability to get it to you fast anywhere in the world. Whether it’s a 1956 F100 truck and you need a windshield seal, or, a 1940 Ford car and it’s a tie rod, you’ll have to look no further than C&G Ford Parts. On the web or on the phone or even if you drop by and chew the fat at the parts counter, we know what classic Ford parts you need. So, forget the aftermarket big car parts chains and come experience good old fashioned customer service and quality know-how.

INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR 1932-1941 Old Ford Trucks, 1932-1941 Ford Passenger Cars and 1939-1941 Mercury Cars with original V8 distributor: 1. Check inner caps one at a time to make sure they fit distributor housing, sand them if needed. Also check to make sure once installed rotor does not hit the inner cap. After fitting inner caps put inner and outer caps together with the spark plug wires and set aside. 2. Mount coil to distributor making sure coil brush makes contact with rotor and copper contact is not bent. 3. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach. 4. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the three mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug). 5. Install inner/outer caps to the distributor and pop the bail over to hold in place. 6. Install vacuum line to distributor. 1941-47 (6 Cylinder “G” Engine) Old Ford Trucks and Passenger Cars, 1942-1947 Old Ford Trucks and 1942-1948 Passenger Cars/Mercury Cars (V8): 1. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach. 2. Place the rotor on distributor and mount distributor cap and turn rotor slowly to make sure the rotor does not hit the inner cap. If rotor hits cap lightly file end of rotor till it clears. Remove distributor cap and set aside. Leave rotor on distributor. 3. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket, be sure not to get sealant on vacuum rubber grommet. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the two mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug). 4. Install distributor cap and pop clips on for 42 crab cap. If you have a 46-48 with the inner and outer cap you will have to install plug wires into cap first before installing caps on distributor.