1964 Ford Falcon Sprint a Brief History

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades.   Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.

1979 Ford F150 The 1979 Ford F150 stands as a significant chapter in the storied history of Ford trucks. Known for its durability, classic design, and utility, the '79 F150 is a beloved model among enthusiasts of classic Ford automobiles. Specifications Engine Options: The 1979 F150 came with various engine options, including: 4.9L 300 Inline-6: A reliable workhorse known for its longevity. 5.0L 302 V8: Offered a balance of power and efficiency. 5.8L 351M V8 and 6.6L 400 V8: These larger engines were preferred for heavier towing and payload capacities. Transmission: Standard: 3-speed manual. Optional: 4-speed manual and 3-speed automatic. Dimensions: Wheelbase: Ranged from 117 inches (regular cab, short bed) to 155 inches (SuperCab, long bed). Length: Varied based on the model, from 188.5 inches to 235 inches. Width: Approximately 79 inches. Towing and Payload: Depended on the engine and configuration, with the larger engines supporting greater capacities. Part Numbers: Locating specific part numbers for a vehicle as old as the 1979 F150 can be challenging. However, some common parts include: Brake Pads: D84-2 Oil Filter: FL-1A Spark Plugs: AGSF32. For more specific parts and their numbers, enthusiasts often refer to vintage Ford parts catalogs or online forums. A great place to get real people to talk parts with, is C&G Ford Parts in Escondido, California. Production Numbers: Ford does not publicly release detailed production numbers by year and model. However, it's known that the F-Series was America's best-selling truck in 1979, contributing significantly to the series' overall sales. The F150's popularity in this era helped solidify its legacy in the Ford lineup. Accessories and Customization: The 1979 F150 was often customized and accessorized, reflecting the owner's needs and style. Popular accessories included: Chrome Bumpers: For enhanced aesthetics. Toolboxes: Fitted in the bed for utility. Lift Kits: Many owners lifted their trucks for off-road capability or for a more imposing road presence. Custom Paint Jobs: Reflecting the era's penchant for personalization. Conclusion: The 1979 Ford F150 remains a beloved classic. Its robust construction, range of engine options, and classic styling have ensured its lasting appeal. While specific part numbers and production figures can be elusive, the truck's impact on the automotive landscape is undeniable. Whether restored to its original glory or customized for modern roads, the '79 F150 continues to be a symbol of Americana and the enduring legacy of Ford trucks.

Ford Applications Using D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel & D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad Servicing the steering column on classic Ford vehicles often requires removing the steering wheel assembly. When working with steering wheel D4TZ-3600-A and horn pad D3TZ-13A805-A applications, the process is straightforward when approached in the correct sequence and with the proper tool. This guide outlines the removal procedure based on original shop notes and preserves the mechanical order of operations. Application Scope Applies to Ford vehicles equipped with: D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad TOOL-3600 Steering Wheel Puller Application may vary by model year or steering column configuration. Always confirm fitment before ordering replacement components. Original Shop Notes Remove two screws holding horn pad Undo wiring clips for horn pad Loosen steering wheel nut Attach steering wheel tool Loosen wheel Remove tool and nut Remove wheel Step-By-Step Technical Interpretation 1. Remove Horn Pad Retaining Screws The horn pad is secured to the steering wheel by two screws. Removing these fasteners allows access to the internal wiring and steering wheel retaining nut. Use appropriate screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw head. 2. Disconnect Horn Pad Wiring Clips With the horn pad removed, carefully release the wiring clips connected to the horn contact assembly. These clips must be detached before steering wheel removal to prevent wire strain or terminal damage. 3. Loosen the Steering Wheel Retaining Nut Loosen the steering wheel nut but do not remove it completely at this stage. Leaving the nut partially threaded helps protect the steering shaft threads during puller use. 4. Install Steering Wheel Puller (TOOL-3600) Attach the steering wheel puller evenly to the threaded mounting holes in the wheel hub. The puller applies controlled pressure to separate the steering wheel from the tapered steering shaft. Using a puller prevents damage to the wheel hub and avoids stressing the column bearings or shaft splines. 5. Release the Steering Wheel from the Shaft Once the puller is properly secured, gradually tighten the tool until the steering wheel breaks free from the taper. After the wheel loosens, remove the puller and fully remove the steering wheel nut. The steering wheel can then be lifted off the column shaft. When Steering Wheel Removal Is Necessary Steering wheel removal is typically required during: Turn signal switch service Steering column restoration Column bearing inspection Steering wheel replacement Because the steering wheel is mounted on a tapered shaft, proper tool use is recommended to avoid damage. Restoration Considerations On older Ford steering columns, corrosion or age can increase resistance between the wheel hub and shaft taper. Controlled puller pressure is preferable to prying or hammering methods. Inspect wiring connectors and horn contacts while the assembly is disassembled. Access during wheel removal provides an opportunity to evaluate column components without additional tear down. Confirm steering column configuration and model year before ordering steering wheels, horn pads, or related steering components. Explore our full selection of classic Ford steering wheels, horn pads, and steering column components.