The Classic Ford Parts Niche and Americana

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150 The 1979 Ford F150 trucks marked the end of the sixth generation of the rugged F-Series pick up trucks, which spanned from 1973 to 1979. Characterized by its design and durability, the 1979 F150 came with a variety of engine options to suit different needs, from more fuel-efficient six-cylinders to powerful V8s. Here's a breakdown of the engine specifications for all models of the 1979 Ford F150: 4.9L Inline-6 (300 CID): This engine was the base option for many F-150s, known for its reliability and decent fuel efficiency for the time. It produced around 114 horsepower and 223 lb-ft of torque. 5.0L V8 (302 CID): A step up in terms of power, the 302 V8 offered a balance of performance and fuel economy, making around 140 horsepower and 239 lb-ft of torque. 5.8L V8 (351 CID) Windsor: The 351 Windsor was another popular V8 option, known for its robustness and torque. It delivered approximately 150 horsepower and 265 lb-ft of torque. 5.8L V8 (351 CID) Modified (M): The 351M, often confused with the Cleveland, was a variant designed for torque more than outright power, with similar horsepower to the Windsor but different in technical specifications. 6.6L V8 (400 CID): The 400 was essentially a 351M with a longer stroke, offering more torque at lower RPMs, making it ideal for towing and heavy-duty applications. It produced around 158 horsepower and 277 lb-ft of torque. 7.5L V8 (460 CID): Available in certain models and regions, this was the largest and most powerful engine option for the F-150 in 1979, used primarily for heavy towing and high-performance needs. It delivered around 245 horsepower and 380 lb-ft of torque, though these numbers could vary slightly based on specific configurations and emissions controls. These engines were paired with a variety of transmission options, including three-speed or four-speed manuals, and the C6 automatic transmission for higher torque engines. The choice of engine and transmission significantly influenced the truck's performance, fuel economy, and towing capacity. Keep in mind, the specific output and performance can vary slightly based on factors like the truck's configuration, optional equipment, and condition. If you're looking into a specific model or have a particular use case in mind (like restoration or modification), it might be helpful to look into more detailed sources or forums dedicated to old Ford trucks, as they can offer a wealth of knowledge and specifics tailored to enthusiasts' needs. The towing capacity of a 1979 Ford F150 can vary significantly depending on the engine size, transmission type, rear axle ratio, and whether the truck is equipped with optional towing packages. Unfortunately, detailed towing capacity specs for vehicles of this era are not as readily available or as standardized as they are for modern vehicles. However, I can provide you with some general estimates and considerations. Engine Size and Power: Larger engines with more torque, such as the 6.6L V8 (400 CID) or the 7.5L V8 (460 CID), would naturally offer higher towing capacities due to their ability to generate more power and torque. These engines would be more suitable for heavier towing or hauling duties. Transmission Type: Trucks equipped with automatic transmissions generally have a higher towing capacity than those with manual transmissions due to the automatic's ability to better manage engine power and torque delivery. Rear Axle Ratio: A higher rear axle ratio can also increase towing capacity, as it provides more torque to the wheels at lower speeds, although this can come at the expense of fuel efficiency. Towing Packages: If the truck was equipped with a factory towing package, it would likely have included features such as a heavier-duty cooling system, stronger frame and suspension components, and possibly even a different rear axle ratio, all of which would contribute to an increased towing capacity. As a rough estimate, the towing capacity for a 1979 Ford F150 could range from about 4,000 to 7,000 pounds, depending on the factors mentioned above. It's important to note that these are general estimates, and the actual towing capacity could vary. If you're planning to tow with such a vehicle, it's crucial to consider not just the maximum towing capacity but also the weight of the trailer, the distribution of weight on the trailer, and the condition of the vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension. For specific towing capacities and to ensure safe towing practices, it's recommended to consult a professional mechanic who is familiar with old Ford trucks or to refer to original Ford documentation or a reliable restoration guide.

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades.   Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.

Since you buy all your classic Ford parts from us, we thought we would enlighten you to a product that you might find useful! Let’s say you’re cruising around town in your Classic Ford… you’re reveling in the number of folks you see looking at your ride (yes your car, not you anymore). You roll to a stop easily and decide to turn the corner and drive down Main Street to see if any of your buddies have made it to the Burger Barn. Suddenly, you feel “clunk” and you KNOW the old Ford didn’t come that way from the factory, so you begin to wonder “Hmmm, what could the old girl need now?”Finishing the cruise you head home and call it a night. Next day you’re up and at ‘em, headed out to the garage. You whizz past your wife in your grubby's and wonder for a moment why she has a big grin on her face, “Oh well, she musta been on the phone” you figure. With a big grin on your face and a wave to the wife, you whistle out loud as you head out the door thinking, “I’ll be at this most of the day” After organizing your tool box and getting everything ready for troubleshooting you begin to diagnose what could be ailing your “baby”. After troubleshooting for a while, you begin to realize that the bushing in the upper steering tube has worn out. It turned to rock and the steering shaft is wobbling around in the tube causing the clunk you felt last night. “Well, that’s a relief” you gush, “I don’t need to tear apart the front end!” “I wonder if Ford has a warranty recall on those” you chuckle to yourself as you pull your dog eared copy of your trusty C&G Ford Parts catalog off the shelf. You see that there is a replacement rubber upper bushing that often gets worn out over the years. “Just what I need” you think. “Hold the phone, what’s this?” you spot a new- fangled “kit” that only C&G has! This Upper Steering tube bearing kit includes bearing, spring, and bushing sleeve that replaces the original rubber bushing for a longer lasting, easier turning, tight fit. The kit includes a diagram to show you exactly where to install the parts, and in it what order. “Excellent” you whistle. So you pick up the phone, call C&G and after speaking to some friendly and knowledgeable parts folk, you have your kit on the way. A couple days later, your classic Ford parts show up and you’re ready to install the new B-3517-K kit you ordered. Remove the steering wheel. Remove original rubber bushing from over worm shaft. Install in this order- bearing , sleeve , spring. Make sure the tapered ends are facing down on both bearing and sleeve, drive the bearing down the worm shaft about 3/4" with a large socket, then let sleeve follow. Finally, put spring over worm shaft, in-between the sleeve and the steering wheel. Put steering wheel back on and tighten down the steering nut. No more play in the upper part of the column! Steering Tube Bearing Kit B-3517-K