All: Classic Ford Maintenance

Turn Signal Switch Removal & Replacement Guide Classic Ford Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Comet & F-Series Trucks (1960s–1970s) If your turn signals are acting up—or just plain dead—it’s often the switch inside the column calling it quits. The good news? This is a very doable repair with basic tools and a little patience. Below is a step-by-step guide to replacing classic Ford turn signal switches, including popular part numbers like C3OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-HQ, C9TZ-13341-C, and C9TZ-13341-USA. Why Replace Your Turn Signal Switch? A worn or failing turn signal switch can cause: Intermittent or non-functioning signals Brake light issues Horn malfunctions (shared circuit in many models) Replacing it restores proper electrical function and keeps your classic Ford safe—and road legal. Tools & Prep Steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) Small crescent wrench Screwdrivers Dielectric grease Phone (for reference photos—trust me on this one) First rule: Disconnect the battery ground cable. Always. Step-by-Step Removal 1. Remove the Turn Signal Lever Twist the lever out. If it’s stubborn, use a small crescent wrench on the flat spot found on most originals. 2. Remove Horn Button or Ring Push down and turn left to release.⚠️ Go slow—there’s a spring underneath that likes to make a break for freedom. Inspect horn ring retainer Remove horn brush if equipped 3. Pull the Steering Wheel Use your steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) and set the wheel aside. 4. Document Wiring (Critical Step) Before disconnecting anything: Take clear photos of wire routing and colors Or write them down if you're going old-school Some 1965+ models use connectors that may require a release tool. 5. Disconnect Wiring Under Dash Unplug the turn signal switch harness from beneath the dash. 6. Remove the Turn Signal Switch Back at the column: Remove the (3) mounting screws ONLY Do NOT remove the two large nuts (unless you enjoy fishing dropped studs out of a column…) Carefully pull the switch upward while feeding the wires out of the column. Installation Process 7. Compare Old vs New Switch Before installing: Match wire colors and count Confirm lever compatibility 8. Install New Switch Feed wires down through the column Seat the switch properly Reinstall the (3) retaining screws 9. Reconnect Wiring Plug into under-dash harness Apply dielectric grease to connections for longevity 10. Reassemble Column Reinstall steering wheel Install horn brush (if applicable) Replace spring, horn button/ring Thread in turn signal lever (don’t over tighten) Final Check (Moment of Truth) Reconnect the battery. Now… No smoke? Good sign. No weird noises? Even better. Turn the key and test: Turn signals Brake lights Horn If everything works—you nailed it.If not… well… time to retrace those wiring steps. Pro Tips from the Shop Floor Always photograph wiring before disassembly—memory lies, photos don’t Replace worn horn components while you’re in there Use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion issues Never force the switch or lever during install Need the Right Turn Signal Switch? At C&G Ford Parts, we’ve been helping restorers get it right since 1978. Every part we carry is built for proper fitment and factory-correct function—because guessing doesn’t belong in a restoration. 👉 Browse our selection of classic Ford turn signal switches and get your signals back in sync.

Why This Job Matters This isn’t just about lights—it’s about safety and reliability. A fresh harness eliminates voltage drops, intermittent faults, and those “works when it feels like it” gremlins. It’s one of those upgrades that doesn’t show at the car show, but you’ll feel it every time you drive.

Flathead V8 Water Pump & Mount Service Guide1937–1948 Ford Passenger Car | 1939–1948 Mercury V8 Servicing the cooling system on a 1937–1948 Ford passenger car or 1939–1948 Mercury V8 requires more than just swapping a part. The flathead platform integrates the water pumps, front engine mounts, and cooling hoses in a way that makes access and sequencing important. Whether you’re replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, or addressing motor mounts at the same time, the process benefits from a clear plan. The parts referenced here include: 78-8501-PR – Water Pumps 78-8501-HK – Water Pump Bolts 78-6038-BDK – Motor Mounts These components are commonly serviced together on 37–48 Ford and 39–48 Mercury V8 applications due to their physical proximity and shared mounting areas. Why These Systems Overlap On these flathead V8 engines, the water pumps mount at the front of the block and are positioned near the front motor mount assembly. In many cases, removing the pumps requires relieving load from the mounts. Aging rubber mounts can sag over time, changing engine position slightly and complicating pump removal or installation. Addressing motor mounts during cooling system service can help maintain proper engine alignment. Fitment may vary slightly by model year or chassis configuration. Always confirm application for Ford passenger car versus Mercury V8 before ordering parts. Give us a call or email and we will answer your questions! Basic Removal Sequence A structured approach reduces stress on hardware and surrounding components: Drain CoolantBegin by fully draining the cooling system. Open the radiator petcock and, if equipped, block drains to remove as much coolant as possible. Remove Radiator Hoses (Upper and Lower)Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and water pump outlets. Inspect hose condition during removal. Loosen Motor Mount BoltsThe front motor mount assembly may need to be loosened to allow slight engine movement. Do not fully remove the mount until the engine is properly supported. Support the EngineCarefully jack up the engine using a wood block under the oil pan. The wood block helps distribute load. Raise only enough to relieve tension from the mounts. Remove All Eight Water Pump BoltsEach pump is secured with multiple bolts. Remove all mounting hardware evenly to prevent binding. The water pump bolt kit (78-8501-HK) ensures proper hardware replacement if originals are corroded or worn. *PRO TIP there is a bolt in each of the lower water pump outlets. Once the bolts are removed, the water pumps (78-8501-PR) can be removed from the block. Surfaces should be cleaned thoroughly before re-installation. Motor Mount Considerations The motor mount kit (78-6038-BDK) supports the engine’s front weight and isolates vibration from the frame. When mounts are deteriorated, engine position may shift slightly. Replacing mounts during water pump service is practical because access is already established and the engine is supported. Fitment should always be verified for specific Ford passenger car or Mercury V8 applications within the 1937–1948 and 1939–1948 ranges. Restoration-Focused Approach Flathead cooling system service is straightforward when handled methodically. These engines were designed for serviceability, but age introduces corrosion, hardware fatigue, and rubber deterioration. Replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, and motor mounts as a coordinated service helps maintain structural alignment and cooling integrity. Taking the time to follow proper removal steps protects original components and ensures the flathead V8 continues operating as intended. View our full selection of Flathead V8 Water Pumps and Cooling Components.