Ford F-Series

FORD F100 HISTORY

In 1953, Ford launched a fresh era of F Series pickups. The 1953 pickups were officially called F-100 and featured sleeker designs with an all-new cab and front end design. This generation of F Series pickups had larger measurements that included 55% larger windshield glass due to its curved design. With the wider cab you can seat 3 full size adults. 1953 Ford also improved chassis now available in 110” and 118” wheelbase (1948-52 is 114”). The gas tank was moved from behind the seat and now mounted on the outside of the frame below the driver’s side of the cab. The upgrades were designed to foster toughness and driving performance. The F Series pickups also took on new names. The F-2 became the F-250. The F-3 was renamed the F-350. Options included a dome light, cigarette lighter, ashtray, sun visors, radio, recirculating air heater and hot water heater. The new name was retained by the F-100 until Ford discontinued production of the F-100 after the 1983 model-year. In 1954 the all-new 239 CID "Y" block engine became available. The 1956 F-100 was celebrated for its perpendicular windshield pillars and its wraparound windshield. Available on the Custom Cab model is a wraparound rear window. The “Y” block 272 was now available as was the 223 6 Cylinder. The gas tank was moved back into the cab behind the seat. Assembly of the F-100 in this time took place mostly in Dearborn, MI. Ford also made approximately 101,000 to 184,000 models of the F100 in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

SECOND GENERATION

The second generation of the Ford F-100 ran from 1957 through 1960. The important styling change for this generation was a lower hood sitting flush on top of the front fenders. Ford launched its tradition of providing two different pick up box styles in this generation. Separate rear fenders were featured on the traditional Stepside design. The new released Styleside layout featured smooth sides as well as a far more streamlined look. New for 1958 was the use of four headlights, Ford continued this until 1960. In 1959, Ford began making the F-100 with a unique four wheel drive. Ahead of this new development, outside makers such as American and Marmon-Herrington and Coleman occasionally converted normal Ford trucks to four wheel drive. The next generation of the vehicles also marked an increase in sales of the optional eight-foot bed for the F-100, the typical length of the bed was six and a half feet. The eight-foot bed eventually eclipsed its smaller counterpart in popularity among F-100 motorists. Assembly continued to take place in the Ford plant in Dearborn, MI.

THE 3RD GENERATION

The new pickups were lower to the ground and wider than earlier versions. 1961 F-100 offered the optional uni-body, which combined the cab and box into one body. Ford discontinued the unibody design at the end of the 1963 production after it fared dismally in the marketplace. 1961 and 1962 Ford still used one piece hood side emblems. In 1963 new body side trim was now available on the styleside trucks with a red painted stripe in the center of the trim. The all new hood side emblem now included a plastic insert with the size of the truck “100”, “250”, “350”. In 1965 designers lowered the cab floor enhancing interior room. 1965 Ford also launched the first of its all new front suspension the "Twin I-Beam". 1965 Also offers a 352 "FE" motor instead of the “Y” block 292. The 6 Cylinder engine is also upgraded from the 223 to the new 240. Ford offered the Ranger option in 1965. The designation referred to your field of options that included an interior optional bucket seats with console and carpeting instead of a rubber floor mat. Ford changed some of its own assembly in this time to a plant in Cuautitlan, Mexico.

FOURTH GENERATION

Ford engineers continued their emphasis on pickups in 1967 that offered a degree of comfort which was similar to a car. 1967 Has new unique hood side emblems. 1967 offered new exterior trim, the body side trim is also new 1-1/4” wide with thin black line top and bottom as well as, available rocker trim. With the new designed cab now includes a new cargo light for the bed at the back of the cab above the rear window. 1968 Changed the hood side emblem to include a reflector. Lower bed side reflectors are standard. The exterior trim is now wider at 1-1/2” wide with the black thin line top and bottom. The Ranger option now includes a grille emblem. New for 1968 is interior door lock knobs. The exterior trim is changed again for 1970. The grille is all new with a plastic inert for either side of the grille. The front of the hood now has a trim going from side to side. The bed side reflector is moved from the lower bed side to the end of the body side trim and now has a light in it. The new Ranger and Ranger XLT trim is now 3-5/8” wide. The new wide trim is available with either black for the Ranger option or woodgrain for the Ranger XLT. 1971 The steering wheel is changed to a two spoke wheel with optional black or woodgrain horn pad.

FIFTH GENERATION OF THE F100 AND INTRODUCTION OF THE F-150

The F-100 underwent major refinements for the fifth generation of the F Series, which ran from 1973 through 1979. Ford released the F-150, a fresh version, in 1973. The F-150 was essentially an F-100 with a spring package in the front and back that enabled the vehicle to carry a heavier load. Ford stopped production of the 4x4 F-100 in 1978. New grille with new plastic inserts for 1973 with the plastic insert now going around the headlight. The XLT option now included a grille emblem. The side trim was now available with a rubber insert down the center of the trim. The side reflectors now had light sockets with the front ones mounted in the front fenders and the rear still at the back of the bed trim. With the all new dash design trucks optioned with factory air conditioning now had vents in the dash for the air to go through and no longer was the air conditioning unit hanging from under the dash. 1974 Ford offered the new “Super Cab” with had a back bench seat and quarter windows behind the door. The new quarter windows were available fixed and with a pop out version. 1977 Offered a new exterior rim called “Race Trak” trim. The trim was a thin molding that started on the front fender at the grille and went down the side of the truck and curved up the bed side to meet the body side trim. Mid year 1978 Ford switch to square headlights which became standard for the F series trucks. Ford stopped producing the venerable F-100 entirely following the 1983 model year.

Fans of Ford F-100 pickups and Ford automobiles in general are motivated to see cgfordparts.com. The site is an excellent resource for locating thousands of old Ford parts now in reproduction. The expert staff members are prepared to answer questions and share their knowledge of Ford restoration.

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1960-65 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades. Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.

General

Old Ford Drum Brake History and Tutorial

Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum. There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use. The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times. Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake. Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards. Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road. Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well. Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas. Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly. You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum. If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once. You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants. When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle. When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.

37-41 Old Ford Trucks, Old Ford Car and Old Mercury Car Distributor

Old Ford Cars

INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR INTO OLD FORD TRUCKS AND CARS

INSTALLING A CLASSIC FORD DISTRIBUTOR 1932-1941 Old Ford Trucks, 1932-1941 Ford Passenger Cars and 1939-1941 Mercury Cars with original V8 distributor: 1. Check inner caps one at a time to make sure they fit distributor housing, sand them if needed. Also check to make sure once installed rotor does not hit the inner cap. After fitting inner caps put inner and outer caps together with the spark plug wires and set aside. 2. Mount coil to distributor making sure coil brush makes contact with rotor and copper contact is not bent. 3. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach. 4. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the three mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug). 5. Install inner/outer caps to the distributor and pop the bail over to hold in place. 6. Install vacuum line to distributor. 1941-47 (6 Cylinder “G” Engine) Old Ford Trucks and Passenger Cars, 1942-1947 Old Ford Trucks and 1942-1948 Passenger Cars/Mercury Cars (V8): 1. Make sure the mounting surface is clean and there is nothing in the camshaft slot where the distributor mounts. Check to make sure mounting bolt threads are clean and free of dirt, set bolts on top of engine for easy reach. 2. Place the rotor on distributor and mount distributor cap and turn rotor slowly to make sure the rotor does not hit the inner cap. If rotor hits cap lightly file end of rotor till it clears. Remove distributor cap and set aside. Leave rotor on distributor. 3. Time to mount the distributor. Put gasket on base of distributor, you can put a small amount of sealant on the gasket, be sure not to get sealant on vacuum rubber grommet. Place distributor on to timing cover using fingers to turn rotor to make sure distributor is correctly seated in the camshaft. The distributor will mount flat to the timing cover when correctly installed. If the distributor is not seated correctly you can crack the distributor case when you tighten the bolts. Now you can put the two mounting bolts in and tighten. Do not over tighten(snug). 4. Install distributor cap and pop clips on for 42 crab cap. If you have a 46-48 with the inner and outer cap you will have to install plug wires into cap first before installing caps on distributor.