1979 Ford F150

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150

1979 Ford F150 in blue, front quarter view

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150

The 1979 Ford F150 trucks marked the end of the sixth generation of the rugged F-Series pick up trucks, which spanned from 1973 to 1979. Characterized by its design and durability, the 1979 F150 came with a variety of engine options to suit different needs, from more fuel-efficient six-cylinders to powerful V8s.

Here's a breakdown of the engine specifications for all models of the 1979 Ford F150:

4.9L Inline-6 (300 CID): This engine was the base option for many F-150s, known for its reliability and decent fuel efficiency for the time. It produced around 114 horsepower and 223 lb-ft of torque.
5.0L V8 (302 CID): A step up in terms of power, the 302 V8 offered a balance of performance and fuel economy, making around 140 horsepower and 239 lb-ft of torque.
5.8L V8 (351 CID) Windsor: The 351 Windsor was another popular V8 option, known for its robustness and torque. It delivered approximately 150 horsepower and 265 lb-ft of torque.
5.8L V8 (351 CID) Modified (M): The 351M, often confused with the Cleveland, was a variant designed for torque more than outright power, with similar horsepower to the Windsor but different in technical specifications.
6.6L V8 (400 CID): The 400 was essentially a 351M with a longer stroke, offering more torque at lower RPMs, making it ideal for towing and heavy-duty applications. It produced around 158 horsepower and 277 lb-ft of torque.
7.5L V8 (460 CID): Available in certain models and regions, this was the largest and most powerful engine option for the F-150 in 1979, used primarily for heavy towing and high-performance needs. It delivered around 245 horsepower and 380 lb-ft of torque, though these numbers could vary slightly based on specific configurations and emissions controls.

These engines were paired with a variety of transmission options, including three-speed or four-speed manuals, and the C6 automatic transmission for higher torque engines. The choice of engine and transmission significantly influenced the truck's performance, fuel economy, and towing capacity.

Keep in mind, the specific output and performance can vary slightly based on factors like the truck's configuration, optional equipment, and condition. If you're looking into a specific model or have a particular use case in mind (like restoration or modification), it might be helpful to look into more detailed sources or forums dedicated to old Ford trucks, as they can offer a wealth of knowledge and specifics tailored to enthusiasts' needs.

The towing capacity of a 1979 Ford F150 can vary significantly depending on the engine size, transmission type, rear axle ratio, and whether the truck is equipped with optional towing packages. Unfortunately, detailed towing capacity specs for vehicles of this era are not as readily available or as standardized as they are for modern vehicles. However, I can provide you with some general estimates and considerations.

Engine Size and Power: Larger engines with more torque, such as the 6.6L V8 (400 CID) or the 7.5L V8 (460 CID), would naturally offer higher towing capacities due to their ability to generate more power and torque. These engines would be more suitable for heavier towing or hauling duties.

Transmission Type: Trucks equipped with automatic transmissions generally have a higher towing capacity than those with manual transmissions due to the automatic's ability to better manage engine power and torque delivery. Rear Axle Ratio: A higher rear axle ratio can also increase towing capacity, as it provides more torque to the wheels at lower speeds, although this can come at the expense of fuel efficiency.

Towing Packages: If the truck was equipped with a factory towing package, it would likely have included features such as a heavier-duty cooling system, stronger frame and suspension components, and possibly even a different rear axle ratio, all of which would contribute to an increased towing capacity.

As a rough estimate, the towing capacity for a 1979 Ford F150 could range from about 4,000 to 7,000 pounds, depending on the factors mentioned above. It's important to note that these are general estimates, and the actual towing capacity could vary. If you're planning to tow with such a vehicle, it's crucial to consider not just the maximum towing capacity but also the weight of the trailer, the distribution of weight on the trailer, and the condition of the vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension.

For specific towing capacities and to ensure safe towing practices, it's recommended to consult a professional mechanic who is familiar with old Ford trucks or to refer to original Ford documentation or a reliable restoration guide.

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.

Name

Email

Comment

Old Ford Cars

1964 Ford Falcon Sprint a Brief History

1964 Ford Falcon Sprint The 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint is a classic Ford car that holds a special place in the hearts of many car enthusiasts. This vintage Ford model was known for its sleek design, powerful engine, and affordable price. While it may have been over 50 years since its release, the 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint is still a highly sought-after car for collectors and enthusiasts alike. In this article, we will explore the history of this iconic car and discuss the process of restoring one to its former glory. The History of the 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint The Ford Falcon was first introduced in 1960 as a compact car designed to compete with other popular models of the time, such as the Chevrolet Corvair and the Plymouth Valiant. In 1963, Ford released the Falcon Sprint in hardtop and convertible, a sportier version of the original Falcon. The Sprint featured a more powerful 260 cid V8 engine, bucket seats, and a floor-mounted shifter (when equipped with the optional 4 speed), making it a popular choice among car enthusiasts. The Falcon Sprint hardtop was also used in various racing events, solidifying its reputation as a high-performance vehicle. If you're looking to restore a 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint, the first step is to find one for sale. While it may be challenging to find one in good condition, there are still some available for purchase. You can search online for classic car dealerships or browse through online marketplaces such as eBay or Craigslist. It's essential to thoroughly inspect the car before making a purchase, as it may require significant restoration work. Restoring a vintage car like the 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint requires a lot of time, effort, and money. It's crucial to have a clear plan and budget in place before starting the restoration process. The first step is to assess the condition of the car and determine which parts need to be replaced or repaired. It's essential to use original or high-quality reproduction Ford parts to maintain the authenticity and value of the car. Once you have successfully restored your 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint, it's crucial to maintain it properly to preserve its value and performance. Regular maintenance, such as oil changes, tune-ups, and inspections, is essential to keep the car running smoothly. It's also essential to store the car in a dry, climate-controlled environment to prevent rust and other damage. Owning a 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint is more than just having a classic car; it's about reviving nostalgia and preserving a piece of history. Restoring this iconic car is a labor of love that requires dedication and passion. But the end result is a beautiful, high-performance vehicle that will turn heads and bring joy to its owner. Are you a fan of the 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint? Have you restored one yourself? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

General

YOUR CLASSIC FORD PARTS STORE

YOUR CLASSIC FORD PARTS STORE If you own a classic Ford, you’re used to dependability. You go out, you start the vehicle, and it runs. That’s the way it should be. After all, when it’s an older Ford, it has longevity built right into it. Sometimes, though, things will take a toll on the best ride you’ve ever owned. Could be the weather - or a little ding or two that happens when someone isn’t paying attention and they run into you. Whatever the reason, if you’ve got something on your list that you need for your old Ford, you can find it at a C&G Ford Parts. You’ll find thousands upon thousands of parts that can get your Ford in the best shape, even if you own one from the late 1970's. That’s sure to give you peace of mind right there. Say you’ve got a 1979 Ford F150 pickup. The jet-black custom paint on it just glints in the sunlight. Your truck is the envy of the neighborhood and everywhere else that you take it. You worked hard for that truck and you deserve to show it off. Taking a friend out for a round or two of golf, you park the truck in the lot carefully away from other cars. But you know how it goes. There always has to be someone who parks right up on you. Only this time, they broke your driver’s side mirror up pretty good and took off without having the decency of letting anyone know. When you do a thorough examination, you see that the door is fine, but the mirror can’t be repaired - the damage is too bad. It’s got to be replaced. Besides making you mad, you’re now faced with the task of figuring out where you’re going to go to get one like it. No worries, because you can get the part you need right at a classic Ford parts store, C&G Ford Parts to be exact. Places that have the stock you’re looking for can easily cover getting you that mirror in no time. Best of all, getting that replacement mirror in an exact match for your truck isn’t going to cost you every penny you’ve got in the bank. At C&G Ford parts, not only will you find what you need when you need it, but you’ll find it for a reasonable price as well. You can’t always prevent bad drivers from doing foolish things and ending up damaging your Ford. But you can rest assured knowing that a C&G Ford parts has got you covered. So take that truck out for a spin any time. They’ll be waiting on you when you need them.

General

Old Ford Drum Brake History and Tutorial

Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum. There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use. The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times. Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake. Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards. Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road. Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well. Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas. Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly. You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum. If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once. You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants. When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle. When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.