OLD FORD CARS

Old Ford Drum Brake History and Tutorial

Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial

Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum.

There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use.

The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times.

Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake.

Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards.

Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road.

Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well.

Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas.

Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly.

You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum.

If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once.

You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants.

When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle.

When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.

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1960-65 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades. Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.

Old Ford Trucks

Exploring an American Classic The Ford F100

The Ford F100, a member of the renowned F-Series, has a rich history that spans decades, evolving from a utilitarian work truck to a sought-after classic. Originally designed to meet the demands of post-war America, the F-100 has since become a symbol of vintage style and automotive nostalgia. The F-100 debuted in 1953, a milestone that marked the second generation of Ford's F-Series. Known for its increased dimensions, improved engines, and updated aesthetics, the F-100 was a significant upgrade from its predecessors. It featured a more powerful 215cid inline-six engine, with an option for a 239cid V8, delivering robust performance for the era. The truck boasted a maximum payload capacity of approximately 1,000 to 1,500 pounds, catering to the needs of businesses and individual users alike. In terms of pricing, the F-100 was marketed as an affordable, reliable work truck. Prices started around $1,600, a figure that, when adjusted for inflation, underscores the truck's value proposition. Fast forward to the present, and the Ford F100 occupies a different space in the automotive world. No longer just a work vehicle, it has become a beloved classic, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts. The market for vintage F-100s has seen a significant uptick, with fully restored models fetching prices upwards of $20,000 to $30,000, and exceptional specimens or custom builds going even higher. The appeal of the F-100 in today's market lies in its simplicity, classic design, and the nostalgia it evokes. It's a canvas for customization, with a thriving aftermarket offering everything from original replacement parts to modern upgrades. The versatility of the F-100 makes it a favorite among those looking to create a personalized classic that combines vintage charm with modern performance. The demand for original equipment specifications remains high, with purists seeking to restore F-100s to their factory glory. This desire for authenticity reflects a broader trend in the classic car market, where originality often equates to higher value. Conclusion The Ford F-100's journey from a practical utility vehicle to a cherished classic is a testament to its enduring appeal. In the current market, it embodies a blend of history, style, and the enduring legacy of Ford's commitment to utility and innovation. Whether restored to its original specifications or customized to modern tastes, the F-100 remains a beloved piece of American automotive history, with a vibrant community of enthusiasts keeping its spirit alive.

1979 Ford F150 in blue, front quarter view

Old Ford Trucks

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150 The 1979 Ford F150 trucks marked the end of the sixth generation of the rugged F-Series pick up trucks, which spanned from 1973 to 1979. Characterized by its design and durability, the 1979 F150 came with a variety of engine options to suit different needs, from more fuel-efficient six-cylinders to powerful V8s. Here's a breakdown of the engine specifications for all models of the 1979 Ford F150: 4.9L Inline-6 (300 CID): This engine was the base option for many F-150s, known for its reliability and decent fuel efficiency for the time. It produced around 114 horsepower and 223 lb-ft of torque. 5.0L V8 (302 CID): A step up in terms of power, the 302 V8 offered a balance of performance and fuel economy, making around 140 horsepower and 239 lb-ft of torque. 5.8L V8 (351 CID) Windsor: The 351 Windsor was another popular V8 option, known for its robustness and torque. It delivered approximately 150 horsepower and 265 lb-ft of torque. 5.8L V8 (351 CID) Modified (M): The 351M, often confused with the Cleveland, was a variant designed for torque more than outright power, with similar horsepower to the Windsor but different in technical specifications. 6.6L V8 (400 CID): The 400 was essentially a 351M with a longer stroke, offering more torque at lower RPMs, making it ideal for towing and heavy-duty applications. It produced around 158 horsepower and 277 lb-ft of torque. 7.5L V8 (460 CID): Available in certain models and regions, this was the largest and most powerful engine option for the F-150 in 1979, used primarily for heavy towing and high-performance needs. It delivered around 245 horsepower and 380 lb-ft of torque, though these numbers could vary slightly based on specific configurations and emissions controls. These engines were paired with a variety of transmission options, including three-speed or four-speed manuals, and the C6 automatic transmission for higher torque engines. The choice of engine and transmission significantly influenced the truck's performance, fuel economy, and towing capacity. Keep in mind, the specific output and performance can vary slightly based on factors like the truck's configuration, optional equipment, and condition. If you're looking into a specific model or have a particular use case in mind (like restoration or modification), it might be helpful to look into more detailed sources or forums dedicated to old Ford trucks, as they can offer a wealth of knowledge and specifics tailored to enthusiasts' needs. The towing capacity of a 1979 Ford F150 can vary significantly depending on the engine size, transmission type, rear axle ratio, and whether the truck is equipped with optional towing packages. Unfortunately, detailed towing capacity specs for vehicles of this era are not as readily available or as standardized as they are for modern vehicles. However, I can provide you with some general estimates and considerations. Engine Size and Power: Larger engines with more torque, such as the 6.6L V8 (400 CID) or the 7.5L V8 (460 CID), would naturally offer higher towing capacities due to their ability to generate more power and torque. These engines would be more suitable for heavier towing or hauling duties. Transmission Type: Trucks equipped with automatic transmissions generally have a higher towing capacity than those with manual transmissions due to the automatic's ability to better manage engine power and torque delivery. Rear Axle Ratio: A higher rear axle ratio can also increase towing capacity, as it provides more torque to the wheels at lower speeds, although this can come at the expense of fuel efficiency. Towing Packages: If the truck was equipped with a factory towing package, it would likely have included features such as a heavier-duty cooling system, stronger frame and suspension components, and possibly even a different rear axle ratio, all of which would contribute to an increased towing capacity. As a rough estimate, the towing capacity for a 1979 Ford F150 could range from about 4,000 to 7,000 pounds, depending on the factors mentioned above. It's important to note that these are general estimates, and the actual towing capacity could vary. If you're planning to tow with such a vehicle, it's crucial to consider not just the maximum towing capacity but also the weight of the trailer, the distribution of weight on the trailer, and the condition of the vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension. For specific towing capacities and to ensure safe towing practices, it's recommended to consult a professional mechanic who is familiar with old Ford trucks or to refer to original Ford documentation or a reliable restoration guide.