OLD FORD CARS

Old Ford Drum Brake History and Tutorial

Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial

Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum.

There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use.

The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times.

Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake.

Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards.

Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road.

Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well.

Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas.

Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly.

You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum.

If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once.

You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants.

When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle.

When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.

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Flathead V8 Water Pump and Mount Service Guide

Flathead V8 Water Pump & Mount Service Guide1937–1948 Ford Passenger Car | 1939–1948 Mercury V8 Servicing the cooling system on a 1937–1948 Ford passenger car or 1939–1948 Mercury V8 requires more than just swapping a part. The flathead platform integrates the water pumps, front engine mounts, and cooling hoses in a way that makes access and sequencing important. Whether you’re replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, or addressing motor mounts at the same time, the process benefits from a clear plan. The parts referenced here include: 78-8501-PR – Water Pumps 78-8501-HK – Water Pump Bolts 78-6038-BDK – Motor Mounts These components are commonly serviced together on 37–48 Ford and 39–48 Mercury V8 applications due to their physical proximity and shared mounting areas. Why These Systems Overlap On these flathead V8 engines, the water pumps mount at the front of the block and are positioned near the front motor mount assembly. In many cases, removing the pumps requires relieving load from the mounts. Aging rubber mounts can sag over time, changing engine position slightly and complicating pump removal or installation. Addressing motor mounts during cooling system service can help maintain proper engine alignment. Fitment may vary slightly by model year or chassis configuration. Always confirm application for Ford passenger car versus Mercury V8 before ordering parts. Give us a call or email and we will answer your questions! Basic Removal Sequence A structured approach reduces stress on hardware and surrounding components: Drain CoolantBegin by fully draining the cooling system. Open the radiator petcock and, if equipped, block drains to remove as much coolant as possible. Remove Radiator Hoses (Upper and Lower)Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and water pump outlets. Inspect hose condition during removal. Loosen Motor Mount BoltsThe front motor mount assembly may need to be loosened to allow slight engine movement. Do not fully remove the mount until the engine is properly supported. Support the EngineCarefully jack up the engine using a wood block under the oil pan. The wood block helps distribute load. Raise only enough to relieve tension from the mounts. Remove All Eight Water Pump BoltsEach pump is secured with multiple bolts. Remove all mounting hardware evenly to prevent binding. The water pump bolt kit (78-8501-HK) ensures proper hardware replacement if originals are corroded or worn. *PRO TIP there is a bolt in each of the lower water pump outlets. Once the bolts are removed, the water pumps (78-8501-PR) can be removed from the block. Surfaces should be cleaned thoroughly before re-installation. Motor Mount Considerations The motor mount kit (78-6038-BDK) supports the engine’s front weight and isolates vibration from the frame. When mounts are deteriorated, engine position may shift slightly. Replacing mounts during water pump service is practical because access is already established and the engine is supported. Fitment should always be verified for specific Ford passenger car or Mercury V8 applications within the 1937–1948 and 1939–1948 ranges. Restoration-Focused Approach Flathead cooling system service is straightforward when handled methodically. These engines were designed for serviceability, but age introduces corrosion, hardware fatigue, and rubber deterioration. Replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, and motor mounts as a coordinated service helps maintain structural alignment and cooling integrity. Taking the time to follow proper removal steps protects original components and ensures the flathead V8 continues operating as intended. View our full selection of Flathead V8 Water Pumps and Cooling Components.

A classic old ford scene featuring 1940's Americana

Old Ford Cars

The Classic Ford Parts Niche and Americana

The world of classic Ford parts is a niche fueled by a unique blend of nostalgia, engineering marvel, and a deep-seated passion for automotive history. This niche isn't just about maintaining or restoring old vehicles; it's about preserving a legacy, a piece of Americana that has shaped and been shaped by decades of innovation and culture. At the heart of this niche are the classic Fords themselves - from the groundbreaking Model T, the first car to be mass-produced, to the Mustang, an icon of American muscle and the F series pick ups which supply the backbone of America. Each model represents a different era, a distinct style of engineering and design. Restoring these vehicles is more than a hobby; it's a journey back in time, an attempt to capture the essence of an era long gone. For those immersed in the classic Ford parts niche, the hunt components is a significant part of the excitement. These enthusiasts spend countless hours searching through auto flea markets, online forums, and specialty shops for that perfect part. The joy of finding a rare, original component can be as exhilarating as driving the restored vehicle itself. The community aspect of this niche is incredibly strong. Across the world, classic Ford owners and restorers come together, both online and in person, to share stories, exchange knowledge, and offer support. Car shows and meet-ups turn into celebrations of these automotive treasures, where the beauty and craftsmanship of classic Fords are displayed with pride. Moreover, the classic Ford parts niche is not just about the past; it's about sustainability. In a world increasingly concerned with environmental impact, restoring and maintaining older vehicles is a form of recycling, giving new life to old Fords that might otherwise be forgotten relics. In essence, the classic Ford parts niche is more than a collection of old cars and their components. It's a testament to the enduring impact of Ford's innovations on automotive culture. It's a community bound by a shared passion for the art of restoration, a reverence for history, and the thrill of bringing a piece of that history back to life. For many, it's not just a hobby; it's a way of connecting with the past and preserving it for future generations. Here at C&G Ford Parts we specialize in reproduction Ford parts.

1979 Ford F150 in blue, front quarter view

Old Ford Trucks

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150

Engine specs for the 1979 Ford F150 The 1979 Ford F150 trucks marked the end of the sixth generation of the rugged F-Series pick up trucks, which spanned from 1973 to 1979. Characterized by its design and durability, the 1979 F150 came with a variety of engine options to suit different needs, from more fuel-efficient six-cylinders to powerful V8s. Here's a breakdown of the engine specifications for all models of the 1979 Ford F150: 4.9L Inline-6 (300 CID): This engine was the base option for many F-150s, known for its reliability and decent fuel efficiency for the time. It produced around 114 horsepower and 223 lb-ft of torque. 5.0L V8 (302 CID): A step up in terms of power, the 302 V8 offered a balance of performance and fuel economy, making around 140 horsepower and 239 lb-ft of torque. 5.8L V8 (351 CID) Windsor: The 351 Windsor was another popular V8 option, known for its robustness and torque. It delivered approximately 150 horsepower and 265 lb-ft of torque. 5.8L V8 (351 CID) Modified (M): The 351M, often confused with the Cleveland, was a variant designed for torque more than outright power, with similar horsepower to the Windsor but different in technical specifications. 6.6L V8 (400 CID): The 400 was essentially a 351M with a longer stroke, offering more torque at lower RPMs, making it ideal for towing and heavy-duty applications. It produced around 158 horsepower and 277 lb-ft of torque. 7.5L V8 (460 CID): Available in certain models and regions, this was the largest and most powerful engine option for the F-150 in 1979, used primarily for heavy towing and high-performance needs. It delivered around 245 horsepower and 380 lb-ft of torque, though these numbers could vary slightly based on specific configurations and emissions controls. These engines were paired with a variety of transmission options, including three-speed or four-speed manuals, and the C6 automatic transmission for higher torque engines. The choice of engine and transmission significantly influenced the truck's performance, fuel economy, and towing capacity. Keep in mind, the specific output and performance can vary slightly based on factors like the truck's configuration, optional equipment, and condition. If you're looking into a specific model or have a particular use case in mind (like restoration or modification), it might be helpful to look into more detailed sources or forums dedicated to old Ford trucks, as they can offer a wealth of knowledge and specifics tailored to enthusiasts' needs. The towing capacity of a 1979 Ford F150 can vary significantly depending on the engine size, transmission type, rear axle ratio, and whether the truck is equipped with optional towing packages. Unfortunately, detailed towing capacity specs for vehicles of this era are not as readily available or as standardized as they are for modern vehicles. However, I can provide you with some general estimates and considerations. Engine Size and Power: Larger engines with more torque, such as the 6.6L V8 (400 CID) or the 7.5L V8 (460 CID), would naturally offer higher towing capacities due to their ability to generate more power and torque. These engines would be more suitable for heavier towing or hauling duties. Transmission Type: Trucks equipped with automatic transmissions generally have a higher towing capacity than those with manual transmissions due to the automatic's ability to better manage engine power and torque delivery. Rear Axle Ratio: A higher rear axle ratio can also increase towing capacity, as it provides more torque to the wheels at lower speeds, although this can come at the expense of fuel efficiency. Towing Packages: If the truck was equipped with a factory towing package, it would likely have included features such as a heavier-duty cooling system, stronger frame and suspension components, and possibly even a different rear axle ratio, all of which would contribute to an increased towing capacity. As a rough estimate, the towing capacity for a 1979 Ford F150 could range from about 4,000 to 7,000 pounds, depending on the factors mentioned above. It's important to note that these are general estimates, and the actual towing capacity could vary. If you're planning to tow with such a vehicle, it's crucial to consider not just the maximum towing capacity but also the weight of the trailer, the distribution of weight on the trailer, and the condition of the vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension. For specific towing capacities and to ensure safe towing practices, it's recommended to consult a professional mechanic who is familiar with old Ford trucks or to refer to original Ford documentation or a reliable restoration guide.