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Ford Applications Using D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel & D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad Servicing the steering column on classic Ford vehicles often requires removing the steering wheel assembly. When working with steering wheel D4TZ-3600-A and horn pad D3TZ-13A805-A applications, the process is straightforward when approached in the correct sequence and with the proper tool. This guide outlines the removal procedure based on original shop notes and preserves the mechanical order of operations. Application Scope Applies to Ford vehicles equipped with: D4TZ-3600-A Steering Wheel D3TZ-13A805-A Horn Pad TOOL-3600 Steering Wheel Puller Application may vary by model year or steering column configuration. Always confirm fitment before ordering replacement components. Original Shop Notes Remove two screws holding horn pad Undo wiring clips for horn pad Loosen steering wheel nut Attach steering wheel tool Loosen wheel Remove tool and nut Remove wheel Step-By-Step Technical Interpretation 1. Remove Horn Pad Retaining Screws The horn pad is secured to the steering wheel by two screws. Removing these fasteners allows access to the internal wiring and steering wheel retaining nut. Use appropriate screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw head. 2. Disconnect Horn Pad Wiring Clips With the horn pad removed, carefully release the wiring clips connected to the horn contact assembly. These clips must be detached before steering wheel removal to prevent wire strain or terminal damage. 3. Loosen the Steering Wheel Retaining Nut Loosen the steering wheel nut but do not remove it completely at this stage. Leaving the nut partially threaded helps protect the steering shaft threads during puller use. 4. Install Steering Wheel Puller (TOOL-3600) Attach the steering wheel puller evenly to the threaded mounting holes in the wheel hub. The puller applies controlled pressure to separate the steering wheel from the tapered steering shaft. Using a puller prevents damage to the wheel hub and avoids stressing the column bearings or shaft splines. 5. Release the Steering Wheel from the Shaft Once the puller is properly secured, gradually tighten the tool until the steering wheel breaks free from the taper. After the wheel loosens, remove the puller and fully remove the steering wheel nut. The steering wheel can then be lifted off the column shaft. When Steering Wheel Removal Is Necessary Steering wheel removal is typically required during: Turn signal switch service Steering column restoration Column bearing inspection Steering wheel replacement Because the steering wheel is mounted on a tapered shaft, proper tool use is recommended to avoid damage. Restoration Considerations On older Ford steering columns, corrosion or age can increase resistance between the wheel hub and shaft taper. Controlled puller pressure is preferable to prying or hammering methods. Inspect wiring connectors and horn contacts while the assembly is disassembled. Access during wheel removal provides an opportunity to evaluate column components without additional tear down. Confirm steering column configuration and model year before ordering steering wheels, horn pads, or related steering components. Explore our full selection of classic Ford steering wheels, horn pads, and steering column components.

Flathead V8 Water Pump & Mount Service Guide1937–1948 Ford Passenger Car | 1939–1948 Mercury V8 Servicing the cooling system on a 1937–1948 Ford passenger car or 1939–1948 Mercury V8 requires more than just swapping a part. The flathead platform integrates the water pumps, front engine mounts, and cooling hoses in a way that makes access and sequencing important. Whether you’re replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, or addressing motor mounts at the same time, the process benefits from a clear plan. The parts referenced here include: 78-8501-PR – Water Pumps 78-8501-HK – Water Pump Bolts 78-6038-BDK – Motor Mounts These components are commonly serviced together on 37–48 Ford and 39–48 Mercury V8 applications due to their physical proximity and shared mounting areas. Why These Systems Overlap On these flathead V8 engines, the water pumps mount at the front of the block and are positioned near the front motor mount assembly. In many cases, removing the pumps requires relieving load from the mounts. Aging rubber mounts can sag over time, changing engine position slightly and complicating pump removal or installation. Addressing motor mounts during cooling system service can help maintain proper engine alignment. Fitment may vary slightly by model year or chassis configuration. Always confirm application for Ford passenger car versus Mercury V8 before ordering parts. Give us a call or email and we will answer your questions! Basic Removal Sequence A structured approach reduces stress on hardware and surrounding components: Drain CoolantBegin by fully draining the cooling system. Open the radiator petcock and, if equipped, block drains to remove as much coolant as possible. Remove Radiator Hoses (Upper and Lower)Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and water pump outlets. Inspect hose condition during removal. Loosen Motor Mount BoltsThe front motor mount assembly may need to be loosened to allow slight engine movement. Do not fully remove the mount until the engine is properly supported. Support the EngineCarefully jack up the engine using a wood block under the oil pan. The wood block helps distribute load. Raise only enough to relieve tension from the mounts. Remove All Eight Water Pump BoltsEach pump is secured with multiple bolts. Remove all mounting hardware evenly to prevent binding. The water pump bolt kit (78-8501-HK) ensures proper hardware replacement if originals are corroded or worn. *PRO TIP there is a bolt in each of the lower water pump outlets. Once the bolts are removed, the water pumps (78-8501-PR) can be removed from the block. Surfaces should be cleaned thoroughly before re-installation. Motor Mount Considerations The motor mount kit (78-6038-BDK) supports the engine’s front weight and isolates vibration from the frame. When mounts are deteriorated, engine position may shift slightly. Replacing mounts during water pump service is practical because access is already established and the engine is supported. Fitment should always be verified for specific Ford passenger car or Mercury V8 applications within the 1937–1948 and 1939–1948 ranges. Restoration-Focused Approach Flathead cooling system service is straightforward when handled methodically. These engines were designed for serviceability, but age introduces corrosion, hardware fatigue, and rubber deterioration. Replacing water pumps, water pump bolts, and motor mounts as a coordinated service helps maintain structural alignment and cooling integrity. Taking the time to follow proper removal steps protects original components and ensures the flathead V8 continues operating as intended. View our full selection of Flathead V8 Water Pumps and Cooling Components.

The 1961–1966 Ford F-Series trucks weren’t just transportation—they were rolling mechanical blueprints.

INTRODUCING A NEW ITEM, THE 1959 PASSENGER AND RANCHERO PARK LIGHT HOUSINGS!  

For anyone who’s ever turned a wrench on a pre-’54 Ford, the sound of a flathead V8 firing up is pure Samuel Fordway  what was once luxury-car territory available to the everyday American at a price they could actually afford. And for that, it earned legendary status under hoods and in hearts across generations. Before Henry Ford’s bold move, eight-cylinder engines were reserved for high-end makes like Cadillac and Packard. But the Ford Flathead changed all that. It was relatively simple, durable, and easy to work on—qualities still prized by today's restorers. Displacing 221 cubic inches and producing 65 horsepower in its first iteration, the flathead V8 steadily evolved through the years, eventually reaching outputs over 100 hp with the later 239 cid and 255 cid variants used in post-war cars and Mercury models. Beyond raw numbers, what makes the Flathead such an icon is its place in American hot rod culture. In the late ’40s and early ’50s, young gearheads yanked these V8s from junked Fords and dropped them into stripped-down coupes, roadsters, and belly tankers. Speed shops sprang up across the country offering hop-up parts—Edelbrock heads, dual-carb intakes, and Isky cams—turning the Flathead into a street and strip warrior. Today, the Flathead is enjoying a well-deserved renaissance. Whether you're restoring a '40 Ford Deluxe coupe or building a traditional highboy roadster, the right parts make all the difference. Original blocks are getting harder to come by, but high-quality reproduction parts—heads, water pumps, fuel pumps, gaskets, and period-correct hardware—make it possible to bring these iron legends back to life with factory precision. At C&G Ford Parts, we stock the real-deal reproduction parts classic Ford purists demand. Everything we sell is backed by decades of expertise and a crew that owns and drives classics just like yours. Ready to keep that Flathead purring like 1950 all over again? Explore our full line of flathead V8 parts and make history roar.