The Iconic 1965 Ford Mustang

The world of classic Ford parts is a niche fueled by a unique blend of nostalgia, engineering marvel, and a deep-seated passion for automotive history. This niche isn't just about maintaining or restoring old vehicles; it's about preserving a legacy, a piece of Americana that has shaped and been shaped by decades of innovation and culture. At the heart of this niche are the classic Fords themselves - from the groundbreaking Model T, the first car to be mass-produced, to the Mustang, an icon of American muscle and the F series pick ups which supply the backbone of America. Each model represents a different era, a distinct style of engineering and design. Restoring these vehicles is more than a hobby; it's a journey back in time, an attempt to capture the essence of an era long gone. For those immersed in the classic Ford parts niche, the hunt components is a significant part of the excitement. These enthusiasts spend countless hours searching through auto flea markets, online forums, and specialty shops for that perfect part. The joy of finding a rare, original component can be as exhilarating as driving the restored vehicle itself. The community aspect of this niche is incredibly strong. Across the world, classic Ford owners and restorers come together, both online and in person, to share stories, exchange knowledge, and offer support. Car shows and meet-ups turn into celebrations of these automotive treasures, where the beauty and craftsmanship of classic Fords are displayed with pride. Moreover, the classic Ford parts niche is not just about the past; it's about sustainability. In a world increasingly concerned with environmental impact, restoring and maintaining older vehicles is a form of recycling, giving new life to old Fords that might otherwise be forgotten relics. In essence, the classic Ford parts niche is more than a collection of old cars and their components. It's a testament to the enduring impact of Ford's innovations on automotive culture. It's a community bound by a shared passion for the art of restoration, a reverence for history, and the thrill of bringing a piece of that history back to life. For many, it's not just a hobby; it's a way of connecting with the past and preserving it for future generations. Here at C&G Ford Parts we specialize in reproduction Ford parts.

1979 Ford F150 The 1979 Ford F150 stands as a significant chapter in the storied history of Ford trucks. Known for its durability, classic design, and utility, the '79 F150 is a beloved model among enthusiasts of classic Ford automobiles. Specifications Engine Options: The 1979 F150 came with various engine options, including: 4.9L 300 Inline-6: A reliable workhorse known for its longevity. 5.0L 302 V8: Offered a balance of power and efficiency. 5.8L 351M V8 and 6.6L 400 V8: These larger engines were preferred for heavier towing and payload capacities. Transmission: Standard: 3-speed manual. Optional: 4-speed manual and 3-speed automatic. Dimensions: Wheelbase: Ranged from 117 inches (regular cab, short bed) to 155 inches (SuperCab, long bed). Length: Varied based on the model, from 188.5 inches to 235 inches. Width: Approximately 79 inches. Towing and Payload: Depended on the engine and configuration, with the larger engines supporting greater capacities. Part Numbers: Locating specific part numbers for a vehicle as old as the 1979 F150 can be challenging. However, some common parts include: Brake Pads: D84-2 Oil Filter: FL-1A Spark Plugs: AGSF32. For more specific parts and their numbers, enthusiasts often refer to vintage Ford parts catalogs or online forums. A great place to get real people to talk parts with, is C&G Ford Parts in Escondido, California. Production Numbers: Ford does not publicly release detailed production numbers by year and model. However, it's known that the F-Series was America's best-selling truck in 1979, contributing significantly to the series' overall sales. The F150's popularity in this era helped solidify its legacy in the Ford lineup. Accessories and Customization: The 1979 F150 was often customized and accessorized, reflecting the owner's needs and style. Popular accessories included: Chrome Bumpers: For enhanced aesthetics. Toolboxes: Fitted in the bed for utility. Lift Kits: Many owners lifted their trucks for off-road capability or for a more imposing road presence. Custom Paint Jobs: Reflecting the era's penchant for personalization. Conclusion: The 1979 Ford F150 remains a beloved classic. Its robust construction, range of engine options, and classic styling have ensured its lasting appeal. While specific part numbers and production figures can be elusive, the truck's impact on the automotive landscape is undeniable. Whether restored to its original glory or customized for modern roads, the '79 F150 continues to be a symbol of Americana and the enduring legacy of Ford trucks.

Old Ford drum brake history and tutorial Pre 1967 old Ford cars and old Ford trucks used a drum brake system. In these systems, pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted to the master cylinder, which in turn disperses the energy ultimately to the brakes in each wheel. The master cylinder uses the brake fluid to move the wheel cylinders, which in turn moves the brake shoes in the drum. There is a front and back brake shoe, the rear one for stopping a vehicle in drive and the forward one for stopping a vehicle in reverse. When either shoe is pressed against the anchor pin, the brakes are engaged, and the vehicle comes to a stop. The brake pads form the shoes to the anchor pin so there is no slipping. The padding on the rear brake shoe is typically longer and sometimes made of a different material to allow the shoes to wear at a similar rate, since the rear shoe sees much more use. The brake shoes are secured in the drum with both hardware and return springs, which must meet ideal sizing and tension specifications for your make and model for top brake performance. These parts should be replaced any time you work on the brakes in order to counteract wear and tear that can lead to longer stopping times. Stock brake line hoses will have a rubber lining, while aftermarket hoses are available in a stainless braided wrap to preserve the hose. Whichever type you get, make sure the hoses are the correct thread size and length for your year and model and meet DOT safety standards. The rear wheel drum brakes will also contain the parking brake mechanism and will have a cable to the parking brake. Brake pipe must be double flared and use flared nuts. It can be purchased with the flaring already completed or you can cut your own and flare it yourself, but it should meet or exceed DOT safety standards. Hydraulic brakes will fail if there is a weak point in the system, so make sure all your hose and fittings are SAE rated and correctly installed. If you are unsure after installation, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as your driveway or an empty parking lot before taking the vehicle on the road. Starting in 1967 all old fords have a dual master cylinder. This part separates the wheel hydraulics of the front and rear of the car, so a failure in one will not cause a failure in the other. In vehicles without this feature, a leak anywhere in the brake line will cause the entire brake system to fail. With a dual master cylinder, a leak in the front brake system will not affect the rear and vice versa. This is standard in vehicles made after '67, but it's a good safety upgrade for older classic Fords as well. Many classic Ford owners choose to upgrade their front brake system to disc brakes, or the complete system. Drum brakes can overheat and fail in high braking conditions, such as rapid stops at high speeds or driving downhill on mountainous roads. Disc brakes are open and exposed to the outside air, which prevents overheating and brake failure. While this upgrade is not strictly necessary, it's a good idea if you frequently drive in hilly or mountainous areas. Original Ford brake shoes used asbestos in the brake pads. If you are working on a vehicle with its original brake shoes or if you are uncertain if they are original, wear a respirator rated for asbestos while working and wet the brake pads before opening the drum to prevent the asbestos from becoming air born. When cleaning dust from drum brakes, use a dense filtration system to trap the asbestos and dispose of it properly. You can resurface a drum with minor surface issues, but make sure it stays within factory limits for your year and model. Worn or thin drums can break apart or crack and cause brake failure. If you see excessive wear and tear, replace the drum. If you are replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, it's a good idea to do them all at once, including the master cylinder. If you have had problems with one, you will soon have problems with the rest. In addition, you won't need to remember which cylinder was replaced when for future maintenance if they were all replaced at once. You can use a vacuum bleeder to remove old brake fluid and contaminants. Once you remove the old fluid you can use denatured alcohol followed by air to purge the lines. Vacuum each cylinder, including the master cylinder, and replace the old fluid with new, DOT 3 or 4 fluids. When changing fluid, change the rubber hoses and seals. If you have a combination disc and drum system, only use DOT 4 fluid. To ensure a complete cleaning, vacuum some of the new fluid through as well do catch any missed contaminants. When working on or near the brake line, make sure no petroleum-based liquid, such as gasoline, oil, or mineral oil, encounters the hosing. These oils can break down the rubber and cause hoses to start leaking. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and during working on the brakes system to prevent this, especially if you have been working on other parts of the vehicle. When working on your brakes, make sure to follow safety precautions, use safety rated parts, and check over your work carefully. Drum brakes are a very important part of the machinery, and due to the hydraulic system, can easily lose stopping power or fail if something is wrong, especially without a dual master cylinder. Whether you're doing regular maintenance or upgrading the whole system, working carefully will ensure a successful job for your vehicle.